Colmcille Climbers

WATERFALL BUTTRESS The small crag to the right of the waterfall. It contains three routes, all of poor quality. Paddy Whack starts at the bottom of the second prominent slab trom the left side of the crag.

1. Take the thin rib and move right over steepening rock. Cross turf to belay on the face.
2. Up past the belay, then up the left of a steep slab. Up right to belay on small nodules.
3. Climb up, keeping out from the vertical wall. Move right round the corner and finish up a crack in the right-hand wall.

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Start: The climb is identified by an obvious chimney formed by a detached flake at halt way and about central on the crag. Start below to the right of this.

1. 21 m Climb diagonally left to reach the chimney. Up this and belay on the top.
2. 15m Climb in corner above stance, them move right on high jugs to finish.

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VS.4a, 4c. Start: To the right of Cantilever and above, are a number of detached rectangular pillars. The climb starts behind the ivy clad pillar.

1. 18m Up corner and into gully. Up to overhang and left to chimney to gain ledge.
2. 18m Up square cut crack for 9m. Move right (crux), then up slightly left to top.

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SOUTH WEST WALL The broken crags reaching from the gully right of Waterfall Buttress to the start of the more continuous rock of the South Buttress. The routes are generally grassy and without great merit. Gangway starts, right of the gully there is a clean vertical wall. This route follows a line of grooves to the foot of the wall and climbs the prominent crack. From here follow a vegetated ramp and onto the vertical wall. Traverse along a narrow ledge on the wall and up to the top.
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Start: Approx. 12m right of Gangway below a holly tree. Climb two short walls, separated by a large vegetated ledge to the base of a diagonal ramp. Climb wall and stepleft into ramp which is followed to a holly tree. Traverse left past one corner, to a second and climb blocks to grassy ledge. Finish up easy rocks and vegetation.
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Right of these routes the rock becomes even more broken and vegetated and then finally merges again to form the left edge of the South Buttress. This edge is steep and dark. To the left of this, about 150m above and left of the bottom edge of the buttress is one further route. Cruddi's Original.This route follows a meandering line up the short slabs and walls separated by grassy terraces to the left of the left edge of South Buttress.
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SOUTH BUTTRESS This is the fine, fairly continuous buttress of rock to the left of Square Cut Gully. The main features are the short but striking tilted pockled wall low down on the left (Pitch 2 of Triversion), the broad, clean sweep of slabs in the middle (Diversion) and the obvious overhang on the right hand side (Turners Corner). The left edge of the buttress is a mixture of short slabs, walls and grassy rakes. The first two routes follow weaving lines up this edge, with a search for interest being rather artificial. Detailed descriptions are not given. Fife/Dunfockery depending on Variation taken At the left edge of the South Buttress, as the cliff turns up the hill, there is a short broken wall. Climb the wall and follow slabs to the next wall. Up this, onto a broken slab area and pick one of the many exits above. Short traverses to the right lead easily into the top of Triversion.
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DV1/12 Triversion" 98m S.4a About 40m left of the lowest part of the South Buttress there is a prominent rib of rock, at the bottom of the clean sweep of slabs and with a large spike at its base. The climb starts up this rib but then breaks left to follow another rib.

1. 40m Follow the rib up and then move left onto slabs, vegetated terrace and the base of the obvious tilted pocked wall.
2. 28m Climb the pockled wall, moving out left at the top to reach a ledge at 16m. Continue up to belay on large vegetated platform.
3. 22m Descend 2m and move right to the diagonally rising quartzite fault. Follow this easily, though exposed, to a large overhang. Step down and round this to belay on a large block below the final headwal!.
4. 8m Move right and up to heather and finish, or climb the steep clean corner above (4a) stepping left near the top.

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Start: As for Triversion. The description given below does not follow exactly the original line but makes the best of the clean rock. Many variations are possible. Generally the route takes a fairly direct line up the clean sweep of slabs, to finish through the short steep headwall as Triversion.

1. 30m Climb the rib as Triversion but then move right across slabs to ledge below vegetated ledges.
2. 25m Climb the narrow pocked ramp on the right of the slabs and immediately left of the vegetation. Move back right to a ledge level with top of vegetated ramp.
3. Move 30m up right side of slab, then, at a spike, go right to niche.
Finish as for Triversion up the steep clean corner to the left of the overhang.

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The next three routes and their many variations all finish up around the huge overhang on the right-hand side of the buttress. Turners Corner. Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The first 42m consists of a rightward rising traverse across broken slabs and vegetation to below a pock marked slab. Climb the left edge of this and exit by the overhanging corner with the huge roof on the left.
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(4a,4b) Start: Immediately below the left end of the roof at the top of Turners Corner is a groove with a line of vegetation down its centre. The left wall of this groove is stained brown in its upper part. Start by scrambling up to the groove.

1. 30m Climb the left wall of the groove until reaching vegetation. Move left and continue up on rock. Cross vegetated ledge to spike. Straight up above to belay in corner.
2. 22m Climb the corner. Finish up vegetated rake to belay at holly tree below the overhang.
3. 18m Climb up to overhang, traverse right and climb round overhang. Scramble up for 6m to spike belay and top of Turners Corner.

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A further route, following the same approx line was put up on 30/3/64 by P Gribbon and J Gunningham called Cachiecleat, and also recorded is the Arrow Variation by C D'Arcy, P O'Halpin 4/8/74 which takes a 4b alternative to the top pitches, exiting left around the overhang. Robbery (HS.3c,4b,3c,4a) The first two pitches follow the right-hand edge of the South Buttress, just as it turns round into Square Cut Gully. It then traverses left across the face to finish as for Turners Corner.

1. 18m Up corner of buttress on blocks for about 8m. Traverse round right onto the gully wall and follow a line of broken blocks to a small ledge to the right of a steep crack.
2. 5m Swing up left into the crack and wander up grassy slab above.
3. 12m Traverse left across the face of the slab to arrive at the base of the pockled slab right of the overhang and belay as for Turners Corner.
4. 30m As Turners Corner climb the left-hand rib of the slab to exit by awkward overhanging corner, with the main overhang on the left.

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The steep left wall of the Square Cut Gully contains some fine rock but rarely sees the sun and is thus usually greasy and uninviting. Two routes are recorded which may be worthwhile after a dry spell. IRA, About a third of the way up the gully wall are two shallow corners formed by thick pillars. This route takes the lower of these. Move up pillar and swing left at overhang. Up to niche, step left and up onto block.
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This route follows the upper corner. Move up flake and swing left. Continue straight up on boiler plate holds to top pillar. Traverse left to small grass ledge and niche. Straight up from niche to small chimney and strenuously to the top.
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Start as for IRB. Go straight up the crack, past a triangular niche at 6m (20ft). Bear on, and on, to where the crack trends right. Keep on following it, past a hollow flake, to grassy ledges and the top. Good value, especially if climbed in the low season. Pate Direct E2.5C A. Millar R. Moore. Straight up instead of moving left at flakes.
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SQUARE CUT GULLY AND THE DELTA FACE To the right of Square Cut Gully and separated from it by a series of slab and broken rock,is the clean upside down triangle of rock known as the Delta Face, bounded on the right by the obvious grey line of Tarquins Groove. The next seven routes all start on the gully walls to the left and below the Delta Face before it turns round to Tarquins Groove. Crypto/Ceannabhan 57m VS.4b,4c These lines share the same area of rock immediately to the right of Square Cut Gully, following in the upper part the obvious clean white slab. Start at the first section of true gully wall in the righthand side of Square Cut Gully. Scramble up to the bottom of a dark slab and corner.

1. 21m. Climb the good crack above until forced left. Continue through overlaps and move right to grass ledges. Belay at the foot of the white slab.
2. 36m. Climb slab using right wall for bridging. Crux is near the top.

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Start: about 30m right of Square Cut Gully there is a subsidiary gully which is bounded on the right by the bottom overhanging wall of the Delta Face, and on the left by a rib that has an overhang at about 30m. Start at the bottom of the overhang and follow the rib.
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Start: About 9m up the subsiduary gully to the right of Square Cut Gully and the rib of Mountjoy. Starts up the ramp which runs from right of the gully, just below and left of a black streaked wall.

1. 30m Climb initial bulge using crack on the right and continue up wall of ramp to heather ledge. Climb wall behind ledge for 2m and move delicately left to edge. Climb arete to heather ledge and belay. This pitch is described as dangerous. A massive rock is detached from main face.
2. 30M Move up edge of rib and step right into chimney. Continue up and out right over white slab to heather ramp, moving diagonally left to belay.

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This is a girdle traverse of the crag, rarely done and quite an undertaking. Only the general line is described here. Climb the first pitch of Mountjoy, or Lazarus. Cross the Delta Face to the top of pitch 4 of Larceny and continue across to the overhang at the top of pitch 5 of Tarquins Groove. Cross the broken gully of Risorgimento (Thin Gully) and descend to tree at the top of Pitch 3 of Surplomb Grise. Climb down Pitches 3 and 2 of Rule Britannia. Traverse right to top of Pitch 1 Ploughshare, which is then followed to top.
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HVS.5a,4b. Start: At the right-hand side of the black streaked wall mentioned above is a corner.

1. 35m. Climb the black corner. At 9m step right below the overhang and then left into a steep corner (crux). From here move up right and then back left on limited protection to belay on ledge on the left. Steep and sustained.
2. 17m. Step back right into the fault and continue on good bridging.

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E2,5c,4c,4c,4c.This fine route takes an almost direct line up the Delta Face. Immediately below the apex of the triangular face is an overhanging wall with a white recess on its right. The climb starts in the recess.

1. 33m. Climb the slanting groove in the recess from right to left until stopped by overhangs. Make a difficult pull out left over the overhangs to a resting place below a very steep wall. Climb the crack in the wall, using a sling to exit on to the Delta Face. Climb up easily for 5m to belay - top of Pitch 3 of Larceny.
2. 24m. Straight up short layback pitch as for Larceny, but instead of traversing left go straight up to the smooth walls and climb delicately right into a scoop with small spike runner. Move up to reach heather and easy rock which is followed to block belay to top of Pitch 4 of Larceny.
3. 21 m. Step right and climb easily to the foot of an obvious corner. Bridge over the first bulge and continue to the second where a move right is made on to the arete in a fine position. Make a difficult move up into a scoop and delicately back left to continue more easily up the arete to a good ledge and belay below the final short corner.
4. 6m. Climb this deceptive corner to the top.

Pitches 2,3 & 4 have been described as hard for this grade, and poorly protected.
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An alternative start to Gethsemane. Just up the hill from Gethsemane is a obvious hanging corner. Move up a couple of metres to an undercut, and make a hard move right across to the base of this corner. Climb up for a few metres, until the route description forces you out right to a jug, which allows you to traverse over rightwards to join Gethsemane below its crux. Do what you want here. This would provide the first half to a good, independent route.
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Exposed climbing on perfect rock. This route starts as for Gethsemane, but at 5m move right on good holds, around the bulging arete to a good flake. Climb airily upwards and leftwards along the arete to the overhang. From here, traverse right under the overhang all the way to Larceny. Continue up Larceny, or lower off the situ ab point above The Deltoid Face.
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Brilliant varied climbing. Start just downhill from Gethsemane. See that really long diagonal crack running right to left? You gain that from the left, and layback as far as a flat hold at 6m. Move right round the bulge on good holds to a rest. From here, follow the vague arete up and slightly left on big flakes to the triangular niche in the roof (as for Tears of Roy). Climb directly through the apex of the niche, cutting loose on flat holds and bodyparts. Continue up to a ledge and lower off situ wires.
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4c,4a.4b,4a Start: To the right of the white recess of Gethsemane is a vegetated niche. Start about 4m below and right of this.

1. 30m. Climb 3m straight up to sloping ledge. Follow this as it rises steeply to left, then make a tricky move into vegetated niche. Continue up left and after 3m move out right across vegetated rake to rib leading diagonally left. Follow this to below overhang. Make two awkward moves across the right-hand wall to vegetation. Move back left on to the Delta Face to a stance above the overhang as for Larceny Pitch 3.
2. 18m. Layback up groove, follow obvious line of weakness around corner on left and continue up to belay.
3. 24m. Follow groove for 4m to good flake runner. Step up on to slab and traverse left to edge. Pull around corner and continue up to triangular overhang on right where it is possible to regain the groove. Belay.
4. 37m. Pull out right and across vegetated rake, then up obvious groove to belay.

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The next four routes all start from the same point. The bottom edge of the Delta Face ends in a steep wall immediately before it turns right across to the Main Face. This edge is a long ramp with a mix of easy slabs and vegetation, with one short step, leading up to the foot of a pockled black corner - the first pitch of Tarquins Groove proper. It is possible to climb a steep crack on the gully wall to arrive at this point. Larceny HS-4b,4a,4b,4a

1. 30m up slabs and vegetation to the foot of the short step with a corner on its left-hand side. (Easy but exposed) Most climbers would rope up at this point.
2. 20m Up the short corner and then easily up vegetation to the foot of the black corner of Tarquins Groove.
3. 20m Step down and onto left wall. Traverse left to grass ledge. Follow this to corner at the upper end. Move left round the front of the face past a sound but rocking block in a crack. Step down and traverse left to a small but good belay ledge at the bottom apex of the Delta Face. Gethsemane and Aiseiri both share this belay.
4. 26m As for Aiseiri Pitch 2 for about 15m. Climb the overhanging wall on the right using crack, and back right onto the slabs of the Delta Face proper. Ascend diagonally right to an obvious triangular block lying at the foot of a steep corner. Gethsemane also shares this belay.
5. 27m Descent about 3m and climb out right. Up for about 6m and then traverse diagonally left above belay. Cross a slab towards the left edge of the Delta Face, and finish up groove. Other harder 4c variations finish up to the right of the face.

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VS_4b,4a,4b,4a

1. Pitches.... 1
2. ....2
3. .....3 as for Larceny - 70m.
4. 30m. From the belay move up and then diagonally right across the face to the edge. Up this airily to a ledge at 15m. From this ledge move slightly right, then left to a black corner.
5. 20m. Climb blocks at the back of the corner and move right. Continue straight up to base of groove to left of the finish of Tarquins Groove. Up this groove and exit right on small ledge.

A harder alternative climbs straight up onto the edge of the Delta Face from just before the swing round left onto the bottom of the face on Pitch 3.
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VS.-,4b, 3c, 4a, 4b,4b.

1. Pitches 1,
2. ....2 as for Larceny - 5Om.
3. 15m. As for Larceny to the corner at the top of the grass ledge, i.e., just before Larceny steps down and round onto the Delta Face.
4. 14m. Climb a broad delicate rib on the right to belay.
5. 20m. Climb up a steep groove with a spike at 4m. Reach a slight overhang on the left and climb this with a hard move to large ledge.
6. 27m. Move up on right - the closer to the edge the harder. Delicate friction moves and hard finger pulls lead to exit at the top of Pussyfoot.

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HS._,4b, 4b, 4a, 4a,4b One of the classics o1 the crag giving consistently good climbing, and is well protected all the way. This route takes the groove line at the right-hand side of the Delta Face and marking the start of the Main Face. Start: As for Larceny,

1. Pitches 1 and ...
2. ...50m to the foot of the black pockled corner.
3. 24m Climb the corner groove using holds mainly on the left wall. Exit left to belay at the holly tree.
4. 16m Cross the groove, ascend the steep wall on the right and move left to the base of the crack.
5. 19m Climb the crack to belay on a large ledge beneath the huge overhang on the right.
6. 22m Traverse left beneath the overhang and then move back right over bulge. Cross onto slab above on the right of the corner and finish up easier rock.

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THE MAIN FACE

This is the long, generally clean wall, running from Tarquins Groove on the left to the overlapping corner of Formorian on the right, where the crag becomes more broken again. The face contains many good routes though some are marred by the approaches up great heather terraces.

Battlers Draught E2 4a, 5c, 4c, 4b, 5a

To the right of Tarquins Groove is the obvious line of Thin Gully taken by the route Risorgimento. This route takes the broad rib of clean rock between these two lines. Start: Climb the grassy Thin Gully to the first rock step. On the left there is a short slab with an overhang. Start at the foot of the slab.

1. 21 m. Up slab on left of overhang and step back right above overhang. Continue up keeping left and belay on grassy ledge at foot of short corner (poor belay).
2. 12m. Climb the thin crack above on left, laybacking around bulge to reach overhang, pinch grips enable a difficult step left to small foothold and runner (small friend). Step back across right to good sloping ledge (it may be possible to step right without stepping left first) and belay.
3. 21 m. Up edge of gully for 2m passing two old pegs. Go left at second peg (as for Risorgiomento) onto ramp, traverse to bottom of black crack. Climb crack to belay overlooking gully
4. 18m. Move slightly left and climb bulge and continue to belay on large ledge.
5. 18m. From left end of ledge climb steep wall/crackline

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Follows roughly the line of Thin Gully, partly in the gully, partly on the ribs to either side. Fairly broken and vegetated. The route is not attractive and interested climbers are left to discover their own way. Much of the line is easy and difficulties are short.
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VS.-,4c,4a,_,4b Start: About 30m to the right of Thin Gully (and about halfway between it and the obvious prominent corner of Rule Britannia) is a long straight steep groove. Directly beneath this, the lines of vegetation reach the highest point at a large overhanging cap of heather. The crux lies about 9m above, and slightly to the left of this heather.

1. 75m Climb the mixed rock and vegetation in the lower half of Thin Gully and then traverse right to ledge at top of heather cap.
2. 22m The crux: climb two short slabs above, trending left, then move left and climb a steep crack leading to a small pulpit. Avoid bulge above by moving out right - delicate - and up to ledge. Continue up to corner on right. Good thread belay.
3. 18m Move left across groove and climb steep crack to trees.
4. 9m Climb generally left until the top of an enormous block projecting over the gully is reached.
5. 12m Climb a short wall to the base of a vertical groove above and slightly right. Substantial holds in the groove lead to easier rock and the top.

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This route starts as for Surplomb Grise but then moves directly up and right to finish the last corner of Erin Go Bragh.

1. 75m As for Surplomb Grise Pitch 1
2. 18m Climb the two short slabs as for Surplomb Grise but move diagonally right on the upper one to reach a steep crack. Up crack and step left at 3m onto sloping ledge. Traverse left then up to belay in steep groove.
3. 18m. Up groove for 6m. Step right to avoid overhang, regain fault and ascent broken overhangs to belay. .
4. 30m. Climb overhangs above and continue to smooth slab. Traverse right to belay under the overhanging corner of Erin Go Bragh.
5. 18m. As for Erin Go Bragh, Pitch 4. Turn overhang by climbing right-hand wall.

An alternative to Pitch 4 was climbed by P O'Leary and P McHugh on 17/6/67. From the smooth slab traverse diagonally left to small ledge with vertical crack at the back. Up crack and continue for 3m. Step down to a broad ledge on the left. Up to ledge at higher level and traverse left for 6m to broad ledge. Exit on right.
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HVS 5a, 3c, 5a, 5a. The original Rule Britannia moved diagonally left from the top of Pitch 2 to finish up Surplomb Grise. Erin Go Bragh is the direct finish giving a much superior route. Start: About halfway between Thin Gully and Fomorian there is a prominent corner which is about as far to the right of Surplomb Grise as the latter is right of Thin Gully. The length of the climb does not include initial scrambling.

1. 21 m. Start from a large grassy area below the corner. Climb up zigzag gangways, moving to the left at first, then right, then left again until the rock becomes steeper. Climb the next 3m with difficulty to a sloping ledge. Traverse left across wet streaks - thin - to reach the bottom of the grass, up right to belay.
2. 13m. Up the slab on the left to another grassy ledge and along this for about 7m to a small spike belay.
3. 27m. Above the Belay Climb to a corner and up it to an overhang. Move right and up to flake. Step left to a nose and continue up to overhanging corner. 4) 18m. Turn overhang by climbing up right-hand wall. Easy climbing to belay.

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HVS.4c, 5a, 4c Start: This climb takes the area of rock left of the first belay on Ploughshare to finish above the large prominent corner, which in turn lies directly above the first pitch of Rule Britannia.

1. 22m Climb the first pitch of Ploughshare.
2. 39m Climb diagonally left across the slab, passing a good flake runner until a few delicate moves lead to a crack line emerging from the large corner mentioned above Move up to a small heather ledge and bridge the corner above to the top, leaving it to the right by memorable moves.Up more easily to a small grotto and thread belays. Last section is Erin Go Bragh.
3. 18m Easily up to the Top.

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4c, 4a, 4a. This route takes a line up the centre of the Main Face. Start by scrambling up the slanting line of vegetation which reaches highest up the face.

1. 22m. From the highest (left-hand) side of the strip of vegetation climb diagonally upwards using thin flakes and friction. A short steep wall is followed by a delicate traverse on a horizontal ledge. Up to vegetation and belay.
2. 18m. Traverse right for 10m on broken rock to a pocked slab on the left.
3. Continue upwards, using a series of platforms moving right, then left, to avoid a small overhang. Continue up on vegetated platforms, moving left where the walls fall away to a slab. Climb the corner of the slab and finish up a short wall.

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VS. 4c, 4b, 3c, 3b Start: At the lower (right-hand) end of the grass ledge from which Ploughshare starts and the foot of a groove below the start of Formorian.

1. 24m Move straight up to a small resting place, then left and along ledge to obvious fault to gain large green terrace.
2. 15m From left-hand end of terrace move up under overhang to reach belay at the top of Ploughshare. Pitch 1.
3. 30m Cross the base of the pockled slab (as Ploughshare Pitch 2) then right under rotten rock to continue up to belay.
4. 12m Continue straight up easily to the top.

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VS. 4b, 4b 3b This route starts at the foot of the obvious fault curving left half way between Surplomb Grise and the end of the cliff, directly above the left edge of the prominent overhung slab on the lower part of the face. It marks the right edge of the Main Face. There are three ways of approaching the fault, none of them entirely pleasant and most parties will want to rope up for them:

• a) Follow a series of heather ledges from the gully that lies about 60m to the right.
• b) 45m From the left edge of the overhung slab move right to gain a rib slanting left. Follow this to a heather terrace and up mixed ground to the base of the fault. Climb up corner for about 8m to an overhung niche and belay.
• c) 10m Left and slightly above the start of (b) is a small wall that leads on to good slabs giving approx 25m of continuous rock before moving right on vegetated ledges to the base of the fault as (a).

1. 23m From the belay there are two alternative pitches. The original route is described first with the easier Cripples Way after.
   • a) 4c Swing out right onto the upper face. Move up delicately on the edge, then right along a sloping ledge, and up on to a similar ledge above. Up on small quartz knobs to good holds and a grassy ledge.
   • b) 4b Continue up the fault corner for 12m, then climb diagonally right to join the original route before the quartz knobs.
2. 21 m Traverse right along ledge for 4m, then climb diagonally left to weakness in overhang. Through this and up wall to grassy ledge on left.
3. 21 m Easy climbing to the top.

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(4b, 5b, 3b).

1. 23m As for Fomorian
2. 25m Traverse left from the belay and up to a thin flake. Climb directly up and turn the overhang on the left. Then back right to a good ledge. Plenty of protection
3. 21 m As for Fomorian

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The next four routes lie on the more broken and vegetated rock at the right-hand end of the crag. They are not described in detail.

Goats Alley. Starts as for Formorian to the bottom of the wall right of the fault line and follows a generally rightward trending line up the slabs and wall right of Formorian.

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The climb lies up the clean white slab to the right of Goat's Alley. Start to the right of the overhung slab at the base of the cliff (as Formorian) and climb the slab to a vegetated ledge below an overhanging wall. It climbs this and moves left via a small overhang to the top.
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This route starts just to the right of Firbolg at the centre of the slab. It follows a line, trending right up slabs and loose rock to the top. Not recommended.
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This climb takes a line up slabs and vegetation to the right of Avalanche. Start up a white slab low down on the extreme right-hand end of the cliff.
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This is a great access route all the routes starting from Ploughshare ledge and are two fine pitches in their own right. 1.    15m 4a Start at left edge of the prominent overhung slab on the lower part of the main face below the Formorian fault. Climb the clean white groove leading left to a heather ledge at 15m and belay at good in situ tat. 2.    35m 4c Move right from tat up onto slab to short crack then traverse left under another hanging slab on good holds until a step up left is possible onto good ledge. Climb the slab for 25m past various sloping ledges to short corner just below heather, moving up slightly to the right of this onto gentler slab and then to right end of Ploughshare ledge.   
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