Route Number: 36

Back to Crag Editor page | Back to Guidebook Editor page

Larceny * *

Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: HS  4a
Length: 123m
First ascent: P.Kenny & Miss C. Laracy (8/55)
Route Description:
The next four routes all start from the same point. The bottom edge of the Delta Face ends in a steep wall immediately before it turns right across to the Main Face. This edge is a long ramp with a mix of easy slabs and vegetation, with one short step, leading up to the foot of a pockled black corner - the first pitch of Tarquins Groove proper. It is possible to climb a steep crack on the gully wall to arrive at this point. Larceny HS-4b,4a,4b,4a
  1. 30m up slabs and vegetation to the foot of the short step with a corner on its left-hand side. (Easy but exposed) Most climbers would rope up at this point.
  2. 20m Up the short corner and then easily up vegetation to the foot of the black corner of Tarquins Groove.
  3. 20m Step down and onto left wall. Traverse left to grass ledge. Follow this to corner at the upper end. Move left round the front of the face past a sound but rocking block in a crack. Step down and traverse left to a small but good belay ledge at the bottom apex of the Delta Face. Gethsemane and Aiseiri both share this belay.
  4. 26m As for Aiseiri Pitch 2 for about 15m. Climb the overhanging wall on the right using crack, and back right onto the slabs of the Delta Face proper. Ascend diagonally right to an obvious triangular block lying at the foot of a steep corner. Gethsemane also shares this belay.
  5. 27m Descent about 3m and climb out right. Up for about 6m and then traverse diagonally left above belay. Cross a slab towards the left edge of the Delta Face, and finish up groove. Other harder 4c variations finish up to the right of the face.

Comments

Donna Ryan - 30/09/2002
Route finding can be difficult and heavy vegetation in some parts has obsured the way. Some gardening required to restore to former glory and ease!

Leave a Comment You must be logged in to leave a comment