Surplomb Grise * * |
Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: VS 4c
Length: 136m
|
| First ascent: F Winder, B Ball (11/9/55) |
| Route Description: |
VS.-,4c,4a,_,4b Start: About 30m to the right of Thin Gully (and
about halfway between it and the obvious prominent corner of Rule Britannia) is a long straight steep groove. Directly beneath this, the lines of vegetation reach the highest point at a large overhanging cap of heather. The crux lies about 9m above, and slightly to the left of this heather.
- 75m Climb the mixed rock and vegetation in the lower half of Thin Gully and then traverse right to ledge at top of heather cap.
- 22m The crux: climb two short slabs above, trending left, then move left and climb a steep crack leading to a small pulpit. Avoid bulge above by moving out right - delicate - and up to ledge. Continue up to corner on right. Good thread belay.
- 18m Move left across groove and climb steep crack to trees.
- 9m Climb generally left until the top of an enormous block projecting over the gully is reached.
- 12m Climb a short wall to the base of a vertical groove above and slightly right. Substantial holds in the groove lead to easier rock and the top.
|
|
| Comments |
Donna Ryan - 30/09/2002
bold runout climbing with exellent gear at crux |
Pete Smith - 05/07/2002
I found this harder than the guidebook suggests. Pitch 1 is scary and steep without much protection. Pitches 3/4 can easily be run together but the 4a move is closer to 4c. All-in-all, a pretty serious undertaking for the average VS climber. |
|
|
