Gaffney's Climb |
Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: HVS -
Length: 159m
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| First ascent: E Gaffney, G Moore, G Cairns (5/62) Pitch 2 P O'Leary, E Goulding (Alt leads) (30.5.66) Pitches 3, 4 |
| Route Description: |
This route starts as for Surplomb Grise but then moves directly up and right to finish the last corner of Erin Go Bragh.-
75m As for Surplomb Grise Pitch 1
- 18m Climb the two short slabs as for Surplomb Grise but move diagonally right on the upper one to reach a steep crack. Up crack and step left at 3m onto sloping ledge. Traverse left then up to belay in steep groove.
- 18m. Up groove for 6m. Step right to avoid overhang, regain fault and ascent broken overhangs to belay. .
- 30m. Climb overhangs above and continue to smooth slab. Traverse right to belay under the overhanging corner of Erin Go Bragh.
- 18m. As for Erin Go Bragh, Pitch 4. Turn overhang by climbing right-hand wall.
An alternative to Pitch 4 was climbed by P O'Leary and P McHugh on 17/6/67. From the smooth slab traverse diagonally left to small ledge with vertical crack at the back. Up crack and continue for 3m. Step down to a broad ledge on the left. Up to ledge at higher level and traverse left for 6m to broad ledge. Exit on right.
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