Route Number: 1139

Back to Crag Editor page | Back to Guidebook Editor page

Rule Britannia/Erin Go Bragh * *

Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: HVS 5a
Length: 79m

First ascent: H Banner, J 0'Neill (2/4/61) (Rule Britannia - Pitches 1 & 2)

Route Description:

HVS 5a, 3c, 5a, 5a. The original Rule Britannia moved diagonally left from the top of Pitch 2 to finish up Surplomb Grise. Erin Go Bragh is the direct finish giving a much superior route. Start: About halfway between Thin Gully and Fomorian there is a prominent corner which is about as far to the right of Surplomb Grise as the latter is right of Thin Gully. The length of the climb does not include initial scrambling.

21 m. Start from a large grassy area below the corner. Climb up zigzag gangways, moving to the left at first, then right, then left again until the rock becomes steeper. Climb the next 3m with difficulty to a sloping ledge. Traverse left across wet streaks - thin - to reach the bottom of the grass, up right to belay.
13m. Up the slab on the left to another grassy ledge and along this for about 7m to a small spike belay.
27m. Above the Belay Climb to a corner and up it to an overhang. Move right and up to flake. Step left to a nose and continue up to overhanging corner. 4) 18m. Turn overhang by climbing up right-hand wall. Easy climbing to belay.

Comments

No Comments have been added so far.