Tarquins Groove * * * |
Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: HS 4b
Length: 131m
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| First ascent: F Winder, H Drasdo (Alt leads) (8/55) |
| Route Description: |
HS._,4b, 4b, 4a, 4a,4b One of the classics o1 the crag giving consistently good climbing, and is well protected all the way. This route takes the groove line at the right-hand side of the Delta Face and marking the start of the Main Face. Start: As for Larceny,
- Pitches 1 and ...
- ...50m to the foot of the black pockled corner.
- 24m Climb the corner groove using holds mainly on the left wall. Exit left to belay at the holly tree.
- 16m Cross the groove, ascend the steep wall on the right and move left to the base of the crack.
- 19m Climb the crack to belay on a large ledge beneath the huge overhang on the right.
- 22m Traverse left beneath the overhang and then move back right over bulge. Cross onto slab above on the right of the corner and finish up easier rock.
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| Comments |
Pete - 23/08/2011
As PC knows very well, cleaning the first 2 pitches of this route is out of the question - they are like near-vertical fields and would probably not even have been mentioned if it wasn't for the single awkward move on pitch 2. |
Peter Cooper - 22/08/2011
Still, if your'e on the route and you fancy giving it a wee clean; be my guest. I'd do it myself but alas still out of action. |
John Duignan & Barney Cra - 22/08/2011
Beautiful line up pristine granite ; Worth the vegetated slog up pitch 1 & 2 ; Pitch three superb even when wet ; The top pitches were on granite as good as any Ive climbed on . This climb alone made a trip to Donegal worthwhile ! |
Bradley Reed - 23/08/2010
Class climbing up a superb line! 1st 2 pitches should still be counted as the walk in with ropes as the good stuff starts at pitch 3. Pitches 3 and 5 I found were the best (the 2 pitches I seconded!. Great to see it still needing cleaning as if this were in england it would be a polished mess! |
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