Route Number: 1136

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Battlers Draught * *

Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: E1  5c
Length: 90m
First ascent: C Torrans, C Sheridan (17/4/81)
Route Description:

THE MAIN FACE

This is the long, generally clean wall, running from Tarquins Groove on the left to the overlapping corner of Formorian on the right, where the crag becomes more broken again. The face contains many good routes though some are marred by the approaches up great heather terraces.

Battlers Draught E2 4a, 5c, 4c, 4b, 5a

To the right of Tarquins Groove is the obvious line of Thin Gully taken by the route Risorgimento. This route takes the broad rib of clean rock between these two lines. Start: Climb the grassy Thin Gully to the first rock step. On the left there is a short slab with an overhang. Start at the foot of the slab.

  1. 21 m. Up slab on left of overhang and step back right above overhang. Continue up keeping left and belay on grassy ledge at foot of short corner (poor belay).
  2. 12m. Climb the thin crack above on left, laybacking around bulge to reach overhang, pinch grips enable a difficult step left to small foothold and runner (small friend). Step back across right to good sloping ledge (it may be possible to step right without stepping left first) and belay.
  3. 21 m. Up edge of gully for 2m passing two old pegs. Go left at second peg (as for Risorgiomento) onto ramp, traverse to bottom of black crack. Climb crack to belay overlooking gully
  4. 18m. Move slightly left and climb bulge and continue to belay on large ledge.
  5. 18m. From left end of ledge climb steep wall/crackline

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