Route Number: 119

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Shitty Nappy Climb

Location: Dunsevrick
Grade: HS  4b
Length: 30m
First ascent: A Millar J Sittlington 24.05.04
Route Description:
Is located 20m right of Bedtime Story when the cliff turns out of the bay to West Crag. Access is by abseil from the good stake at the top of West Crag where it turns round into the bay. Grotty climbing up the easy looking chimney a few metres right of the fine arete found before the cliff turns into the small bay. At 2/3rds height the rock steepens dampens and holds and gear disappears. Traverse right along foot traverse till you hit a part of what should be the top of another well protected climb. Climb this to the top, past a few gulls nests. Deserves a negative star rating! Escape route whilst gripped.

Comments

Kevin Kilroy - 29/07/2010
Sounds like a great idea. These sort of routes can feel better than *** classics depending on the type of battle you're in search of. Go for it!

Peter Cooper - 27/07/2010
Noted the negative star comment and this reminds me that there is/was a black spot rating in the old Yorkshire Grit guide. Rather than put folks off the balack spot climbs became sought-after routes amongst climbers in Leeds Uni MC and were boasted of with as much pride as any 3 star climb. Who'd like to this resurrected for the Donegal guide, I can think of a few contenders.

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