Route Number: 156

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Zanzibar *

Location: Culdaff - Dunowen (Brazil Rock)
Grade: HVS  5a
Length: 18m
First ascent: A.Tees, P.Robinson 8/8/92
Route Description:
This climbs the dramatic corner past several overhangs and exiting through the camels eye. The crux is at the start and poorly protected.

Photo of Route
Zanzibar - This is no Effing HVS!
Comments

hugh h - 18/06/2012
very nice climbing, but 5c it is not! top end 5a possibly 5b.

P Cooper - 16/04/2009
I think we're getting a good consensus now.It's just what's needed on routes like this one. Seems like we'll have it as a 'fudge-grade' E1 5b/c.

Michael Hassan - 13/04/2009
The start of this route felt like 5c to me. It does ease off after that, but I finished by climbing to the right of Bunratti's layback move, so overall I'd say E1 5c.

Michael - 13/04/2009
Actually, after some thought on other routes for comparison, I think E1 5b (hard 5b though). Small fingers are helpful for the start too.

rodders - 21/06/2008
Just seen some of these comments. Just want to say I'm not the unnamed snidey wanker in case anyone comes to that conclusion based on any posts by me in the forum. If people are going to make comments like this they should have the courage and decency to do it without using pseudonyms.

Peter Cooper - 21/04/2008
I 2nd' George on this and still felt it to be thin and tenuous, a very top-end 5b if not 5c; or am I just not doing enough climbing? George is also being modest, he omits to say his protection popped and he effectively soloed the crux. Your'e climbing very well, George.

George Carleton - 20/04/2008
Climbed this line yesterday. Very committing until above the overhang. Harder than HVS at least E1 5b in my humble opinion. The loose flake is still above the overhang. A good route, worth doing.

Alan Tees - 28/08/2007
Gentlemen please! Comments should be relevant to the route and attributable, to have any value.

un-named snidey wanker - 27/08/2007
i used to like this club but there is a really nasty uncouth undercurrant and i have lost all respect

Alan Tees - 17/08/2007
I possessed no small wires on thr first ascent, and thought it was about E1, but the Dunlops then climbed it and said it was not that hard, about HVS. Who was I to argue!?

Unnamed snidey wanker - 17/08/2007
so you should have stated how you climbed it as we nearly had a go at this

Peter Cooper - 08/07/2006
After about 5 'back-offs' on my gear I eventually succeeded and I felt that the route is about E2 5c until once your'e over the overhang. Rather than 'cop-out' and go through the gap I finished up the centre of the face on the right. Alan Tees confirmed he had to lead it with the rope through some pre-placed protection on the first ascent. I too found that there is a horribly loose-sounding flake on the face above the overhang.

Dave Millar - 10/05/2006
Climbed this there at the weekend. You can get reasonable small wires in the corner to start, although the start I felt was quite sustained and me and Al reckoned it was worthy of E1 5b just for that first 5m or so. Very good route, nice technical climbing.

Martin Sweeney - 04/05/2006
I also climbed this at the weekend of the climb fest, good route and agree with Dave you get small wires in the corner, Black Diamond micro wires size 5, i think. Also small cam at start to hold your belayer in place. At the small over hang just after the start there is a good hold for your left hand, over the overhang i pulled on this and it moved and sounded loose, so did not use it, if it comes of it hitting your belayer

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