Heidbanger * |
Location: Malinbeg (Alba Wall)
Grade: E2 5b
Length: 15m
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| First ascent: C.McDaid, I. Miller 14/02/09 |
| Route Description: |
| Climb the prominient crack system left of center to ledge at 2/3rd height. Climb to top trending slightly right. |
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| Comments |
Chris McDaid - 05/04/2009
Climbed this again yeaterday. Must've had a bad day at the office on FA. Reckon its HVS 4c, due to fiddly and marginal gear up to the ledge |
Pete Smith - 01/04/2009
Yeah. Nervous fella that Miller. |
Peter Cooper - 01/04/2009
Obviously we need folks doing lots of climbing of all routes to iron-out grades. What a terrible job, I volunteer myself. |
Iain Miller - 01/04/2009
Good Heavens, E2 5b to VS 4c in one fell swoop, this must be a ground breaking downgrade? I for one feel proud to be involved in this historic moment. Would free climbfest micro fleeces to ALL involved be out the question? |
Chris McDaid - 01/04/2009
Pete, the grading at Malinbeg is all over the shop. So far we've got at least 3 anomalies, Heidbanger, Ancient Mariner/Trident and without a doubt Hydrophobia. If Flying Enterprise is the benchmark at that grade at Malinbeg then that at least gives a starting point. There is no way on earth Trident is anywhere near VS, same applies to Hydrophobia. As for Heidbanger, soon as am fit again, I'll reclimb it and correct any grading error. Sound like a plan? |
George Carleton - 01/04/2009
Totally agree about Hydrophobia, didnt feel any harder than HS. Regardless of the grade Heidbanger is a is a good climb and well worth doing. |
Peter Cooper - 31/03/2009
This is great feedback. I use the cold excuse even in August. Keep the routes and feedback coming. So what is the grade? |
Chris McDaid - 31/03/2009
Just waiting on the fellow first ascencionists feedback. Or maybe he's shy :-) |
Anthony Feeney - 30/03/2009
Only seconded it with George but very doable. Thin edges for feet on finish but solid hand holds. George used small cams on the horizontal cracks. Certainly no harder than HVS 5a. |
Chris McDaid - 30/03/2009
Thanks Anthony for the feedback. If I've overgraded this route then apologies, certainly wasn't intended. It was very cold and very early in the season when we did it, and that may have had an effect. Not to worry, good to see the online guidebook getting used for feedback, which is the whole point surely? :-) |
George Carleton - 29/03/2009
I led this route as per topo on Saturday. A good line with nice moves but never felt any harder than VS 4c to me, and i managed to place at least 4 pieces of what in my opinion was decent gear. |
Chris McDaid - 29/03/2009
Fair comment George. Found both of the routes on this wall very very difficult to grade. Further comments welcome |
Chris McDaid - 15/02/2009
Only 2 decent bits of gear on the route, groundfall a high possibility on the crux |
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