Route Number: 1870

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The Mistress * * *

Location: Poisoned Glen (Ballaghageeha Buttress)
Grade: E1 5b
Length: 52m

First ascent: K Mc Gee, P Tinney. (27/06/09)

Route Description:

1: 30m Start about 4m left of the v-chimney on Berserker Wall. Climb directly up the wall to a stance on the ramp below the bottom of a crack system (BD1). Climb the steep and strenuous wall on small holds for about 2m to a jug and solid nut placement. Follow the natural rightward curve(Friends 3+2) on better holds to a good stance in a corner below a small bulge. A BD0.5 can be placed in the vertical crack just over the lip of the bulge. Climb directly over this and up the face for c3m. Traverse left to gain the corner crack. Climb this to the top and then follow it to the right across the slab. Downclimb from the spike onto the grassy ledge and belay.
2: 22m Climb the steep corner crack

The Mistress - Ballaghageeha Buttress, Poison Glen

Comments

Geoff Thomas - 19/05/2016
Definitely a 3 star route. Even better when done in one pitch.

georgec - 15/05/2016
I would agree with Dave\'s comments on the grade etc. A great route and well worth the 3 stars. Was climbed in on magnificent pitch.

Dave Millar - 11/06/2010
Great route! The first pitch provides fine, steep technical climbing with enough protection, the second pitch is shorter but has some great technical climbing with quality of the rock clean and sound throughout the route. Seemed from reports that a fair bit of cleaning went into this route, gud effort! Grade I,d say about E1 5b, 5a, *** route!