Route Number: 2117

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Tower Ridge * * *

Location: Errigal
Grade: VD  
Length: 180m
First ascent: Columba McLaughlin and Noel McLaughlin October 1999
Route Description:
 A superb Donegal mountain ridge climbing experience with some very fine and exposed positions. Access Errigal’s North West face from the northern farm access road, be careful where you park. Errigal's Tower Ridge faces NNW and takes time to dry out after rain. Start at the eastern (left hand)base of the ridge and scramble up and over rocky obstacles (very greasy when wet and poor protection) until the base of the 1st Tower is reached. This point can also be accessed directly. From here scramble up the Eastern edge of the 1st Tower until a narrow ramp allows access back to the centre of the tower. There is a belay below the Finger (projecting Block). Easier going from here until the top of the 1st Tower and a good belay position. There is a good view of the narrow 'Staircase' from here. Scramble up the 5 steps of ‘The Staircase’ (2nd Tower). Be careful of the 3rd step which is loose, very narrow and poorly protected. Climb the block at the top to gain a good ledge and access to the top of ‘The Ramp’ and a bombproof belay position. Walk past the top of the ramp to the base of the 3rd Tower and gain the right hand skyline ridge for a short airy and unprotected scramble to the col with the NWMC Ridge and then a pleasant dander up to the 2nd Summit.

Photo of Route
Errigal's Tower Ridge - A brilliant 3 star *** Donegal Mountain Ridge route. The left hand (Eastern) ridge line is best. Base of the 1st Tower can be accessed directly. Very greasy in wet conditions. The Staircase is very dangerous in windy conditions.
Comments

Bill - 24/03/2013
Loose? Can't say I noticed

Pete - 14/03/2013
Alan did it in 1974. Columba got the first ascent in 1999. The loose rock keeps tumbling down. Would it be fair to say that Alan's 2013 effort constitutes a first ascent of the current incarnation of the route? How long would it be decent to wait before claiming a further 1st ascent?

Alfie Conn - 27/02/2013
How can it be a three star route being so loose? Surely three stars means that "It doesn't get better than this"

Alan Tees - 27/02/2013
Last did this in 1974 with Freezie Lee and 2 girls in wet windy and cold conditions, a miserable day, and never went back. Much better this time. Had a lovely day (well half hour) on it with Bill. Its a bit short, far too short to compare with Carrot Ridge, and loose, yes, but so is Howling Ridge.

IM - 12/05/2011
The last 2 harsh cold winters have not been kind to this line. There is considerable new frost shattered rock in the first 100m with much poised "to fall" rock. The 2nd half of the route is in fine condition and the big air is still present. :-)

henry Mckee - 11/10/2010
beautiful line, with beautiful situations, on a beautiful mountain. Increasing difficulty and better and better positions as you proceed, in some ways an absolute classic ; but probably the loosest and most lethal route ( particularly for the second) I have ever been on in Ireland or indeed the alps. This one really is a truly alpine experience due to the total instability and looseness of even the largest bits of rock on the route. If it got climbed 3 or 4 times a year it would probably clean up nicely and would compete with justification with Howling Ridge or Carrot Ridge but currently hard to claim any stars for what has a great deal of objective danger from loose rock most of which seems to be holding on against all known logic. Perhaps a work party could clean it? Just don't stand underneath them at the time.

Iain Miller - 16/07/2010
A superb climb And DEFO the best way to the summit of Donegal's highest point! ***

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