Route Number: 40

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Return of the Eagles

Location: Poisoned Glen (West Buttress)
Grade: HVS  5a
Length: 50m
First ascent: Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees (alt leads) Mark McGuigan
Route Description:
This climb takes the RHS.of a huge flake to the right of Serial Slabs, and right of the deep gash & gully. A rising approach is made leftwards, to reach a steep heather slope below ahuge perched flake, right of vertical gully. Start in obvious cleaned 75 degree corner, & climb it until forced up left into another higher vertical corner. Climb it (peg in situe) to exit onto slab (crux). Move left along groove,& delicately up thin crack to large ledge & belay. Continue up left on offwidth(good holds) until it becomes overhanging, forming the edge of a flake. Excellent hidden jugs lead to exposed stance on top of flake. Step off right hand edge of flake & climb 20m meandering crack up the headwall to vegetated ledge. Short wall & steep mixed ground to the top.

Photo of Route
Return of the Eagles (poisoned Glen) - Mark McGuigan on top pitch
Comments

Pete Smith - 29/04/2008
Read trip report in the Logbook

Bill Magowan - 15/04/2003
Are both pitches 5a, or what? How long is each pitch??

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