Kongen |
Location: Poisoned Glen (Ballaghageeha Buttress)
Grade: HVS 5a
Length: 63m
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| First ascent: P Redmond, D Walsh (15/8/74) |
| Route Description: |
HVS.4b,4c(1 aid pt) 5a (2 aid pts) Start: About 3m right of the wet corner at the end of the ramp leading up to the large grassy ledge below Dexterity, there is a short wall leading to a grass terrace. - 15m Climb the wall passing on the left a small grass terrace and surmount the detached bracket above. Scramble up grass and belay at the foot of the crack in the wall above.
- 24m Climb the steep wall above to the right of the crack, joining the crack at 5m. Climb the crack with 1 aid point to just beneath the bulge above. Surmount this on good holds to a jug above. Climb the wall above to a small sloping ledge and airy belay at the foot of the corner.
- 24m Traverse left to where a vague pink quartz vein runs upwards. Gain a small sloping shelf above (2 aid points). Continue up the vague groove to the mantleshelf (crux), and continue up easier ground above to block belay.
'To the right of Kongen is a wide dirty chimney which was climbed by P. McDermott and E. Goulding in May 68. It is not recommended' (1985 guide). |
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| Comments |
PeterC - 29/03/2012
Great stuff Patrick, glad to see this route seeing a repeat - excellent feedback. Keep it up and don't forget to get the best leading pics and topo pics while your at it - I don't ask much.
YOUR GUIDEBOOK NEEDS YOU! |
P. Tinney - 25/03/2012
Climbed this today. Excellent climb, the first pitch was dry today and not to bad, the second pitch is a super climb up a steep crack on great holds and good gear, and the third is as he says delicate with great moves. The whole climb was in great condition. Deserves a couple of stars me thinks. |
David Walsh - 19/08/2008
The second and third pitches are shown incorrectly on the photo. Kongen keeps to the left of Dexterity, right of Anachronism. All the 1974 points of aid were removed in September 1993, by David Walsh on the second pitch, and Finbar Crowley on the third pitch, and the grades remain the same. The first pitch is a dirty wet scramble, the second pitch is a magnificent open wall climb, and the third is delicate. With modern gear, the whole route is bomb proof. |
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