Dawson Whyte Knuckle Ride Direct * * * |
Location: Eglish (The Gatepost)
Grade: E1 5b
Length: 45m
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| First ascent: R Smith, B Johnston (3/9/00) |
| Route Description: |
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Start as for original route. Climb 4m and where original steps right continue straight up to join it again on the main face crack. Continue to large ledge. Step left to the base of steep finger/layback crack and climb this to the top. Superb!
A further variation was done by Calvin and Clare Torrans, starting up `Old Dogs",traversing under the shield and finishing up the layback crack
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| Comments |
Dave Millar - 29/05/2018
Climbed this a while ago and thought it was sustained E1 in top corner, probably 5b. The exposure is mega? |
georgec - 19/05/2018
Seconded Kevin on this today, the upper crack is steep and sustained, great route though. |
Peter Cooper - 30/11/2010
I'd agree it's worth a quick abb to check it's clean, the exposure is pretty hairy. Note the above quote is from a lad regularly climbing and new-routing above the, current, grade of E1. It'd be nice to see some photos that do this climb justice. |
Kevin McGee - 30/11/2010
We tried this a few months ago but the upper walls were very dirty so we had to resort to aid climbing to get up it. It's an excellent route though and a better line than the original. |
Peter Cooper - 29/11/2010
I consider the 3 stars totally merited, the upper crack just puts you in fantastic situations; I was half-terrified and only seconding that day! The exposure is something else, this is a serious tick and could just ease-up to 5c. Any comments out there? Has anybody ever soloed this, I wonder? |
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