Route Number: 604

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Juniper Wall * * *

Location: Eglish (The Gatepost)
Grade: VS 4c
Length: 15m

First ascent: R Smith, B Johnston (18/6/00)

Route Description:

Start at lowest point of Juniper Buttress. The route climbs the cracked slabby face with the obvious right-left crack. Gain ledge 1 m and climb the left crack to the overhang (awkward). Pull over on large holds to gain the wall above. Climb the wall directly finishing to the left of the juniper bush. Good route!

Juniper Wall Area, Eglish - A Daxhound Days.
B Two Fingers of Gin.
C Juniper Wall.
D Teesme.

Comments

P. Tinney - 30/11/2010
Got to lead this in the summer. The starting move was tricky and there is another tricky move where the cracks get thin. Worth the 3 stars.

Peter Cooper - 29/11/2010
Just while we're commenting on routes in this area. This was to be my first climb in Eglish, but the friable/grainy granite scared me silly, after years on good quality gritstone, so Dave Millar kindly led it. March 2003. I thought it was a really good line and was sick that I hadn't been brave enough to just do it. I'd like to get on it again someday.