Route Number: 66

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Split Arete

Location: Glascairns Hill
Grade: E4  6b
Length: 6m
First ascent: Dave Millar
Route Description:
This little number actually climbs the arete of a boulder 400m down the valley from the main slabs. The boulder is about 20ft high, is split in half and has an obvious curving arete next to the main stream. A bouldering mat was used on the ascent. Climb the obvious 20ft curving arete by stepping onto a small horizontal edge initially and then off a good pebble. Continue upwards using toe hooks on the arete and smears. Holds improve towards the top.

Comments

Peter Cooper - 25/01/2012
I didn't get it when I was a younger man, but I was already pretty pointless. I'm sure folks will back me up! What is really great is that Ireland's best bouldering problem is in Donegal. Hooray and big big cheers to Dave Millar.

Alan Tees - 23/01/2012
Whao! Apologies to all. Must go and have a look.

Dave Flanagan - 20/01/2012
I think Split Arete is a high boulder problem rather than a route. And yes I think it is the best boulder problem in Ireland.

Patrick - 19/01/2012
No that photo is of a different boulder called Split Pea. Echo Rock is further down the valley near the forest and the stream.Split Arete is describe as the best boulder problem in Ireland in David Flanagans guibe.

Pointless grumpy old man - 19/01/2012
Further to my last pointless post, I have been looking back through old pictures, and have one circa Nov 78,which I will put on the gallery, featuring Self, Brian McDermott ad Richard Smith on a boulder below Glascairns. Is it the same one? If so,it is indeed a remarkably fine boulder, but I find it hard to believe it is the best in the world. Sorry lads. its an age thing!

Kevin - 18/01/2012
Most pointless post goes to.

Alan Tees - 17/01/2012
And the shortest.

Kevin - 16/01/2012
Way to go man! Worth the effort! Bet the beer tasted sweet yesterday evening! I'd say it is 6c too. Either way this thing is probably the best arete in the world.

Rodney Moore - 15/01/2012
Finally climbed this today. Awesome piece of rock, totally world class. Highball font 6c *** in my opinion. Thanks to Dave and Kevin for the inspiration.

Kevin Kilroy - 06/11/2011
A magical line. thanks dave.

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