Route Number: 903

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Albatross

Location: Malinbeg (Narrow Zawn)
Grade: VS  4c
Length: 20m
First ascent: E Cooper (2/81)
Route Description:
Start: The left-hand end of the buttress is characterised by an obvious prow of rock, with a crack running up its right-hand side. Climb this well protected crack to upper slab and the top.

Photo of Route
Helen on Albatross - Led by Alfie (not that Alfie, the other one)
Comments

G. Carleton - 11/07/2013
Seconded this route last Saturday, agree with P. Tinney, felt more like 5a HVS/E1 territory.

P. Tinney - 16/10/2011
Climbed the route in the photo today and thought it much harder than VS 4c, at least HVS 5a or E1. Also climbed the crack which goes up the prow to the left of the climber in the photo which felt more like VS 4c but isn't 20m closer to 10m. The description fits for both routes only the difficulty is different.

K McGee - 26/09/2011
Climbed the route in the photo that goes up the thin crack between the two hanging aretes and thought it harder than 4c. The wide crack on the right edge of the prow is much easier. Although it's steep at the start, every hold is a jug and the stances and gear are great.

Peter Cooper - 31/08/2011
Good work lads, keep it coming for any other routes.

Jonathan Conroy - 28/08/2011
Albatross climbs the prow to the left of the photo there is a really obvious crack that is steep but short grade is correct. I climbed the route in the photo in 2007 thinking it was a first ascent and named it Particle Accelerator but obviously it was climbed in 93 by Paul and Ricky. I graded it E1 5b but maybe E1 5s is more accurate, I remember it being pretty thin on really small wires. I have a photo of me leading it on Facebook which i'll try to stick up in the next few days.

Hugh Boyle - 17/03/2011
Rockclimber Issue 3 1994. Mr Ben 20m E1 5a -This takes the groove between the two hanging arete on the left side of the wall. Start below and right of the groove. Climb easy to the bottom of the groove (left side). Move into groove and follow to top. P.McArthur, R. Young 28/5/93 This is the route done in the photo. Not E1 5a or anyway near it - a couple of VS moves at most. Albatross starts on the small ledge below and left of the climber and climbs the steep prow and finishes in the crack to the left of the belayer - thats what i think - seen a scottish lad soloing it one time. done it myself and good solid 5a it was

alan blair - 15/03/2011
certainly looks like the albatross we done last year and grade was right

Peter Cooper - 14/03/2011
Irish Climber mag just describes where Paul is climbing and doesn't name the route. The description for Albatross in Dawson's edition of the guide describes 'A' as 4c/5a but at VS. Perhaps this need a few further comments? And of course, leafing through Irish Climber Mag's new route section has reminded me there were more routes added in the Malin Beg area - but nobody seems to be doing any claiming of routes in those areas.

Hugh Boyle - 14/03/2011
I think Albatross goes up the prow on the left of the route shown here and is a steep and tricky number. The route being done in this photo was done by Paul McArthur about 1993 and graded E1 5a (Was on the cover of the first Irish Climber Magazine. Cant remember the name but will get it.

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