Cruit Island - Traderg Wall Area

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Route Code Route Name Grade Sort No
 

Scalpachore Crag. The southfacing wall of Scalpachore catches the sun early, provides many short climbs and is a pleasant place to climb in the mornings. At low to half tide it is possible to access the climbs on the R-hand (inland) side by scrambling in, otherwise abseil in. Climbs are 8 to 12m in length. Low to mid-tide only.The first 3 climbs can be accessed by abseiling down a shallow corner to a small ledge directly opposite a small rock islet.

D Edit Route Delete
  The Last Hurrah D - Edit Route Delete
  Half Way House S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Ga gréine D Edit Route Delete
  Black Gold S Edit Route Delete
  Wriggle n Win HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Left Hand Path D - Edit Route Delete
  Rowers Head Rage HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Tooty Boots VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  The Vice S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Bran D - Edit Route Delete
  The Chimney S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Cookie Jar D - Edit Route Delete
  Forkentown HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Lest We Forget D - Edit Route Delete
  Friend of Freud S Edit Route Delete
  An Gaeilgeoir. HS Edit Route Delete
  Whale Fish HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Black Arete S - Edit Route Delete
  Vision Quest VS 5a Edit Route Delete
 

Inland Crag. Just south of Morning Wall, at the back of a cove and facing out to sea.A place to climb when high tides are running. It suffers a little from seepage, but benefits from the sun. Climbs are 10 to 14m long.

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  Hug D - Edit Route Delete
  Glaine ár gcroí. VD Edit Route Delete
  Neart ár lámh VD Edit Route Delete
  Beart de réir ár mbriathair VD Edit Route Delete
 

Tráthnóna Wall. Just south of the Inland Crag.Often greasy in the mornings and for this reason best left until after lunch. Approach by scrambling down from the L-hand (northern) end. The L-hand section of this wall is characterised by a series of L-facing slabs, best seen from above Morning Wall. Climbs are 12 to 14m in length. Low to mid-tide only.

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  Rock Pool Wall S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Wave Escape D - Edit Route Delete
  Clean Sweep VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Iron Man S - Edit Route Delete
  Titanium Man HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Two Ends of a Middle HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Seggílegge VS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Trio VS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Joe L's Jaunt VD Edit Route Delete
  The Scholar S Edit Route Delete
  Maamturks Man VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Grease Lightening VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Croithlí Dáithí E2 5c Edit Route Delete
 

The R-hand side of Tráthnóna Wall is steep and undercut. An abseil approach is the only option, and hanging belays the order of the day.This section is bordered on the R by a green, grassy gully, (Green Gully) sloping down from N to S.

 D Edit Route Delete
 

Poll Na Caoineadh Bordered on the L by Green Gully and on the R by Stream Gully. Climbs are 18 - 25m long.

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  Territorial Pissings VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Marauder E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  Contortion Gully VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Airborne Midget's Chimney HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  An Sciath S Edit Route Delete
  Cith is Dealain D Edit Route Delete
  An Giolla Deacair VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  An Buachaill Caol Dubh S - Edit Route Delete
  Flowing Tide. S 4a Edit Route Delete
 

Immediately R of "Flowing Tide" the crag is undercut, and only accessible by boulder hop from the base of Green Gully at low tide. This section is seperated from the R-hand section by a chimney with a large chockstone at the very top (Chockstone Chimney).

 D Edit Route Delete
  Haensel E1 5c Edit Route Delete
  Frugivorous Fault HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Commitment Issues E1 5b Edit Route Delete
  Weeping Wall Groove VS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Chockstone Chimney VD - Edit Route Delete
 

Poll na Caoineadh. Right side. At low to mid-tide approach down Stream Gully ( this gully separates Poll na Caoineadh from Traderg Wall, and there are no prizes for guessing this is the gully with the small stream running down it!) After a tricky start, scramble back N, along good ledges. At mid-to-full tide this area can be accessed by abseiling down the centre of the wall at, or near, the line of Home is the Sailor. A rocky reef, running parallel to this section, protects the base of the wall during high seas.

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  G-String VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Knickers S Edit Route Delete
  Skid marks HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Stigmata E2 6a Edit Route Delete
  The Traderg Tantrum E1 5b Edit Route Delete
 

At about the central point of this section there is a cluster of R-ward pointing flakes in the upper half of the face. The next three climbs are located here.

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  The Parting Glass S Edit Route Delete
  Stira S Edit Route Delete
  Distraction HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Drunken Muppet HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Ballad of the Wood Thieves HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
  Carraig ar Crith VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Mary's Route VD - Edit Route Delete
  The Great Escape S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Mujahadeen HVS 5a Edit Route Delete
 

Traderg Wall. This is the south facing wall at the northern end of Traderg Bay (GR 732212), below and to the L of the thatched cottage development. Viewed from the boulder beach below the cottages, the most obvious features are a narrow chimney (Chimney Sweep HS 4b) with a bulbous wedge-shaped cliff on its L .Bounded on the L by Stream Gully and on the R by a boulder beach accessed from the thatched cottages. The L-hand side, from Stream Gully as far R as the L edge of the bulbous, wedge-shaped cliff, can be accessed at most tides from the gully. The R-hand side, from the boulder beach to the wedge-shaped cliff can be approached from the beach at low to mid tide.

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  Pikie Groove S - Edit Route Delete
  Cruitical Moves HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Absolute Cruitical Moves VS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Pommies Groove S 4b Edit Route Delete
  Faolchú HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Ward Off the Ozzies HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Look Well to Every Step S - Edit Route Delete
  4 April Fools S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Decker's Direct S 4a Edit Route Delete
  Seven Steps to Nowhere S 4a Edit Route Delete
  The Cruit Itch E2 5c Edit Route Delete
 

Traderg Wall Right hand side

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  Strangeboat VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Lust for oil VS 4c Edit Route Delete
  Chimney Sweep HS 4b Edit Route Delete
  Max E2 5b Edit Route Delete
  Kahlua\'s Scratch E5 6b Edit Route Delete