Back to Logbook Archive for 2008 | Back to Home Page

Garda Stake out.

Date: 4/08/08
Submitted by: Alan Tees

PC and I braved a Garda "Stake Out" to climb at Crohy Head.  Its a long drive from Culdaff and of course was raining when we got there.  Spent a while exploring in the drizzle, but soon it cleared, and we went to Pinnacle Wall, where I led a direct start to "Imram Brain"I think its called, the lrftward trending HVS on the extreme left of this fine wee wall.  The tide was way out, so we could start on the barnacles and limpids at the bottom, without having to traverse in, as per the guide.  Low in the grade I think, but traverses out over a void and gear is not always easy to find. Peter had sussed out a blank area straight up the wall from the same point, and led it at about E1.

We then went to a possible line about 100m back, between two narrow zawns, over a conspicuous band of white rock, to abseil down to a small yellow ledge at the lip of the left (facing the sea) zawn. Climb up directly and continue over an overhang with an eroded lip on big jugs, and slab to the top. V.Diff or less.  Disappointing.

I had hoped Peter would lead The Rainman E1, but Peter doesnt do other people's routes, so he led a new line up the middle of the wall between the Rainman, and McKinstrys Crack at E2 5c, desperate, but fair play to him for leading it - 14 runners! I took an enthusiastic party of midges up afterwards!  We were pursued to the car, on which the Garda had left a note that the vicinity was under surveillence, and to leave the area immediately.  The midges ensured we did!  We saw nothing, so it was very covert, (but I think they must have gone home for their tea.)

Photo of Route