Route Number: 1535

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Tormore Island

Location: Sea Stacks and Pinnacles
Grade: VS
Length: 200m

First ascent: Iain Miller, Pete McConnel, Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 10/08/08

Route Description:

Grid 555909. The is the largest of a number of huge stacks north of Port. Difficult of access other than by boat. Legend, and Haskett Smith, has it that a young man died out there during the famine, having been cut off by bad weather. Local men went out later, and buried him there, on a grassy area named Borraigh Na Cahal.Not aware of any recent verified ascents until 10/08/08 (see below) This route climbs the very obvious landward arete at the Eastern End of the island. This feature can be clearly seen from any position along this coast overlooking the stack. Access to this stack by land is an involved affair and a boat approach is recommended.

Pitch 1. 45m Starting on the non-tidal ledge in the centre of the landward face directly opposite "Hidden Stack," climb the blunt arete to the right of the vertical Basalt vein and follow the corners & ledges on superb quartz to a large block belay.

Pitch 2. 40m Continue up the Arete on slabby mixed ground to below a huge capping roof, peg belay.

Pitch 3. 45m Climb direct on superb rock to the left end of the huge roofs and become increasingly aware of your surroundings. Pass the roofs on your left & continue on mixed ground to a huge ledge & peg belay.

Pitch 4 45m Climb near vertical grass to an exposed wee ridge, follow the ridge for 15m to a block belay.

Pitch 5. 20m Scramble up the grassy ridge to the summit.

Descent is by 4 abseils back down the route using the block and peg belays described.

Tormore Island

Comments

Iain Miller - 25/11/2008
Easiest approach is from An Port Road end and descend to the Beach at Glenlough. "Coastaleer" your way south to the sea crossing to the stack.

Iain Miller - 25/11/2008
Oh, it takes 3 and a half hours from An Port road end and there are 2 channel crossings.

Alan Tees - 15/08/2008
I. Miller, P. McConnel, A. Tees, P. Cooper 10/08/08 This route climbs the very obvious landward arete at the Eastern end of the island. This feature can clearly be seen from any position along this coast overlooking the stack. Access to this stack by land is a very involved affair, boat approach recomended.1. 45m Starting on the non tidal ledge in the center of the landward face, directly opposite the secret 35 mtr stack. Climb the blunt arete to the right of the vertical basalt vein, folow the corners and ledges on superb quartz to a large block belay.2. 40m Continue up the arete on slabby mixed ground to a large ledge below huge capping roof, peg belay.3. 45m Climb direct on superb rock to the left end of the huge roofs and become increasingly aware of your surroundings. Pass the roofs on the left and continue on mixed ground to a huge ledge and peg belay.4. 45m Climb gearless, near vertical grass to an exposed wee ridgefollow ridgefor 15 metres to a block belay.5. 20m Scramble up the grass covered ridge to the summit. Descent is by 4 abseils back down this route using the block and peg belays described. More Details