Route Number: 2516

Back to Crag | Back to Guidebook | Back to Home Page

Northern Exposure

Location: Malin Head (The cauldron)
Grade: S  4a
Length: 60m
First ascent: A.Tees,M.McGuigan, B.Magowan, A.Conn 18/09/11
Route Description:
  Descend at the end of the Zawn of Stelfox Slab (the Cauldron), to a non tidal ledge, and a metre right of the Headcase, climb another  ,sound ,black, corner, with a good crack for protection.  Continue up the obvious line of weakness, being pushed gradually right on a profusion of  flat holds (gear not wonderful).  When the angle steepens near the top, the gear gets better, as you bridge up either side of a steep crack, to gain the arête. Belay.  Continue up the arête with care.

Photo of Route
Malin Headpoint - Alan leads,Martys belays, and Alfie supervises
Comments

georgec - 07/10/2018
A fun route in a spectacular location. Probably best done in two pitches even with 60m ropes. The rock at the top of the route is poor and once on top you have to go quite a ways back to get an anchor for a belay.

Alan - 13/10/2013
Did the bottom bit of this (unavailable on the first ascent due to big waves) and it was great, would recommend the lower section as a climb in its own right, particularly if you don't fancy the unprotected nature of the rest of the route above. You can just walk off to the left from where Marty and Alfie are standing.

Leave a Comment You must be logged in to leave a comment