Crag Number: 225

Glenagivne Wall (The Music House)

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Glenagivne Wall

Directions: This impressive wall rises in three tiers from just above sea level to the summit of Rock End at over 400m at the northern termination of Glenane Hill. Steep multi-cracked walls are capped by ‘The Beak’, a prominent spike at its highest point. The lowest tier, (The Music House) is probably the most impressive and attractive, and this is separated from the upper cliffs by a thin heathery terrace. There is a cave/alcove by the beginning of the terrace, should shelter be required ( and a shelter at the bottom under some boulders too). The middle wall, above, is also seamed with cracks which run through 2 bulges for most of its length. The upper wall is slabby, has a large prow, and the prominent ‘Beak’ at the top. Approach Turn off the Moville to Gleneely Road towards Kinnego bay, continue along the hilly coastal road east and park at Craig . Best approach is a coastal boulder hop from Glenagivne Beach (much easier when the tide is out).  Park on a lane below some holiday cottages gr 639 454, walk further down the lane to a bend, and follow a path left, down through some woods, exiting by the river onto the stunning Glenagivne Beach.  Walk to the east end of the beach and do a coastal traverse from there. Outside the growing season, there is an alternative route from Craig, use the rising track through 2 gates across Mr Anthony McHendry’s land, which is probably marginally shorter. Anthony is of advanced years, but still good for a yarn, and very hospitable, so call and ask at his house, just left of the gate at Gr 640 454 From the holiday cottages above Glenagivne bay, continue a short distance up the hill, and take the left of two side- by- side lanes, one of which is not marked on the OS map (first asking permission, see above). At the end of the lane is another gate, and beyond is a track running left, down towards the sea. Take this and follow it as it bends to the right, until you come to a swampy area, from where a stream emanates. The ground to the left is wet, tussocky and rushy, but there are sheep paths through it which descend to a fence at the top of the bens. Follow the fence to the right (east) to a grassy spur, and take a steep sheep track down the slopes to just above the sea. Five minutes further east will lead to Glenagivne Wall. This approach is about 40 minutes from the car.

OS Grid Reference: Gr 650 459

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Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 15/07/21
This ' Must do route ' takes the obvious corner left of the lower wall (left of The Music House).  Scramble up to the ledge at the base of the corner.  Layback the corner using biggish cams or hexes for protection.  You will need at least 4, but the rock is reassuringly grippy.
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 12/08/21
This takes the crack and flake just right of centre of the left wall, and two or three metres left of Caruso.  The start is a scramble to gain the bottom of the crack, climb the crack (crux) move right and climb to gain the flake, from where it eases. Nice route and grade is provisional as a bit more cleaning is required, and the second did it in the rain.
HS 4b
Length: 20m
Geoff Thomas, Neil Mahone 23/08/21
On the left wall of the Music House, this takes the crackline, about one metre to the left of Ginger Lady.  Well protected with sound rock.  Escape either rightwards across the terrace, or abseil.
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 30m
Alan Tees, Sean Convery, Eugene Doherty 3/06/21

 30m HVS 5a

Start just below The Dutchman, and move left past  a flake to a ledge.  A couple of layback moves required to gain the parallel crackline about a metre left of Dutchman.   The crack becomes double, then single again before reaching the ledge. Again, very protectable throughout.

 
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 30m
Alan Tees, Sean Convery (alt Leads) Eugene Doherty 3/06/21
   

Towards the left end of the wall is an obvious crackline going from the bottom straight up the wall to a ledge.  Climb it whatever way you can. Sustained, but very well protected throughout with nuts or small cams.  A second short pitch can be added from the ledge, over a big flake and short crack to a large vegetated area.  No escape options from this area have been researched as yet.

Alan Tees, Sean Convery (alt Leads) Eugene Doherty 3/06/21


Photo of route HS 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Eugene Doherty 18/04/2021
Near the centre of the lower wall is a big flake, with a Y crack above.  Start below the flake and ascend to gain its left hand side. Continue up the crack, choosing the left hand fork, which leads to a grassy ledge with a good horizontal belay crack at the back.  Escape is across the exposed heathery terrace to the right, or abseil (or continue up the next tier of rock)
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 20m
Geoff Thomas, Alan Tees 15/07/21
A couple of metres right of Seventy Heaven are twin cracks.  Climb these to a ledge, another ledge just above, and continue up the thin crack , the crux being at the bottom, but it eases as you go up.
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 20m
Eugene Doherty, Alan Tees 7/07/21
Start at the twin cracks as for Reggae Roots, but move right using undercut flake, and climb the next groove.