Route List | Colmcille Climbers

Crag Number: 3

Culdaff - Dunowen (Brazil Rock)
Type a title for the picture here - 1 Alhambra VD 2 Bunratti Pillar HVS 5a 3 Zanzibar HVS 5a 4 Start of Something New E4 6a 5 Broadbinn's Emporium Sev 6 Croca-Corolla HVS 5b
Directions: The old fishermans permissive path connecting Dunowen Wall with the other crags beyond has been closed by the landowner. The locals are not happy about it, but nothing is likely to be done, so use a different approach to these crags. On regaining the Culdaff/Glengad road from Bunagee, turn right, and take the first right again, up the hill, past another turn to the right, and park in a small quarry on the left. Just beyond this is a cart track on the edge of a field (close wire gate after you) which leads down past a small byre, into a field, which gives access, over a tumble down wall, to the rough ground above the shore. Very close to Brazil Rock! Please do not take dogs to Dunowen. Please be careful when crossing the walls and replace any stones that you may knock off. If you cross the land you do so at your own risk. OS Grid Reference: C536513 Click here to view location in Google Maps

Across the bay from Bunagee/Dunowen Fort a castle-like rock can be seen, this is Brasil Rock. The first route follows the left hand arete of Brasil Rock.

1 - Alhambra * VD Length: 18m A.Tees,K.Gallagher, V.Russell 8/09/92 The start is at the base of a crack system about 2 metres to the right of the arete. Climb up steeply for 2m and traverse left to the base of the edge, which is climbed, passing the overhang on the left; an exposed step regains the main pillar.
2 - Bunratti Pillar * * * HVS 5a Length: 18m P. Nelis, K. Gallagher 8/09/92 Start as for Alhambra, but continue straight up the crack until a rightwards traverse gains a small ledge; before a stunning layback up the crack to the top.
ip2/2 - bunratti direct HVS 5a Length: 18m H.Hennessy, C.Brennan 17/6/2012 Takes a line directly to the end of the traverse of "bunratti pillar" finish as for this route. abseil inspected.
3 - Zanzibar * HVS 5a Length: 18m A.Tees, P.Robinson 8/8/92 This climbs the dramatic corner past several overhangs and exiting through the camels eye. The crux is at the start and poorly protected.
21 - Bob the Builder E3 5c Length: 20m G. Morrow, J. Ramsey (Headpoint) July 2021 Climb the arete and horizontal breaks left of Start of Something New. Traverse left around the arete before reaching the overhang and finish direct up the wall above. Micro wires recommended.
4 - Start of Something New * * E4 6a Length: 20m Paul Dunlop 8/11/92 Steep and sustained climbing up the capped groove right of Zanzibar. Climb the steep groove to the cracked overhanging wall. Climb this short wall, past some friends in a hand jam crack to two good holds below the overhang. Move right over the roof to a big ledge. Finish up the wall on the left.
5 - Croca-Corolla * * HVS 5b Length: 20m D. Millar, M. McGinty & P. Cooper July 2003 Climb the corner of Broadbinns Emporium to one-third height. Step left and climb the leftward trending diagonal crack by a tricky mantle to start and a second mantle to reach the ledge of Start of Something New. Finish as for Start of Something New.
6 - Broadbinn's Emporium * HS 4a Length: 18m Alan Tees, Paul Robinson 8/08/92 This takes the large right angled corner, right of the main pillar. The corner is gained by awkward moves up the parallel cracks. Start is often guarded by brambles/briars. The trade route of the crag!
7 - Novena to St Jude E1 5b Length: 18m P.Cooper, V. Schafer & G. Carleton 19/04/08 Climb 'Broadbins Emporium' to the ledge, then follow the central line up the face. An eliminate but the top third is why its worth doing. Well protected in the right hand crack, for the top; remove 1 exposure grade if you use 'Broadbins' big crack.

Right of and around the corner from Broadbinn's Emporium is a tapering rockface with a crack running up it.

8 - Broadbinn's Shrimp Net Variation HS 4b Length: 18m H.Boyle 8/11/92 Gain the half way ledge on the Emporium, but move out right and climb the edge over at least two ledges. Rarely done.
9 - Apex VS 4c Length: 10m Paul Nelis, Pete Smith 27/04/95 The route traverses in from the right, to gain the crack at mid height; climb this. Exit up and behind.
10 - Bunagee Bluegrass Boys S 3c Length: 10m Alan & Andy Tees 27/04/95 A poor route that starts in the corner right of Apex (As in the Hustler) but continues up the wall/ corner to join Broadbinns last moves.
11 - The Hustler * HS 4b Length: 15m V. Russell, H. Boyle, R. Dougherty 8/11/92 Climb the corner to a ledge, follow the cracks in the wall to another ledge; surmount the corner and overhang to finish. Technical.
12 - Moonstruck * HVS 4c Length: 10m Paul Dunlop 8/11/92 The arete to the right of the Hustler.
13 - Cap Gun Corner * S 4a Length: 10m Alan & Andy Tees 27/09/92 The short right angled corner to the right of Moonstruck. Better, (and longer) than it looks!
14 - Expertise * S 4a Length: 10m A Tees, A Tees 1992 Takes the right arete and crack on right hand side of butress. Pleasant climbing with a sting in the tail.

Moving uphill and rightwards behind Brasil Rock will bring you to a rock face, in what is known locally as Canny's Port (the former land owner). Access base of crag via a grassy descent at back of the port. Routes start on seawrd facing end.

15 - Short Arm Crack HS 4b Length: 10m J.Healy, B.Duffy 5/92 The short crack just around the corner from Expertise.
16 - Tridentina Uno VS 4b Length: 20m Alan Tees Peter Cooper 8/09/08 At the seaward facing end of the crag is a cleaned area of rock leading to a tower. Start up a cleaned approach from the very bottom,looseish, and step left into corner. Climb slab/ramp above, using corner on left for gear and the occassional hold. Ascend up slightly right into a hanging corner, which is climbed to a ledge below a slightly overhanging wall. Move left and up short chimney to finish. Columba's ab posts in-situ.
17 - Furious Garda VS 4b Length: 20m Anthony Feeney, Sean Diver 7/04/09 Scramble up as for "Tridentina" and gain a short crack on the right (becoming a corner) by an awkward balancy step. Climb this to a ledge and continue, either directly up, or via a pillar on the right, into an exposed stance in a hanging brown corner above. Gear around the corner on the left! Continue to the top via the short chimney as per Tridentina.
18 - Hy Brasil HS 4b Length: 20m Alan Tees, Anthony Feeney, Sean Diver 7/04/09 This starts in the central crack one metre right of "Furious Garda". Climb the crack (with a long reach), and continue up right to a ledge beside "Turin Shroud" After an awkward step to another higher ledge, the route gives a superb finish up the exposed arete on great holds and protection.

This route is found on Muckross Wall, a west facing crag with characteristic overhangs west of Pinnacle Bay and faces Brazil Rock.

19 - Turin Shroud HS 4b Length: 18m ??? Just West of Brasil Rock is a steep West facing wall, above a stoney bay. Access from Brasil rock through a gully by a cave. This takes the prominent central line, which was cleaned by Columba McLaughlin, but some dubious rock still remains.
20 - Ulysses S 4a Length: 15m K.Gallagher, Paul Marshall, V.Russell 23/08/92 On Muckross Wall (A west facing crag with characteristic overhangs west of Pinnacle Bay and facing Brazil Rock) there is a shallow corner towards the seaward end. Climb the left hand side of this, and continue up a corner and flakes to the top.