Crag Number: 18
Warm Bay Point |
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Sea Wall, Warm Bay Point. - A) High Stakes, Sev 4a B) Croaghdoo Girdle, VD C) Ace of Spades, VD. D) Two of Clubs, VD E) Scannan Na Seachtan, E1 5b F) Dusty Zebra, VD G) American Pie, VS 4c H) Ramona Sev.4a. |
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Directions: Access to the crag can be gained via following the coastal road between Tremone Bay and Kinnagoe Bay. Take directions for Kinnagoe Bay (see Donegal Guide). Take a signposted turn off left for Culdaff, 500m before the turn for Kinnagoe crag. Drive for approximately 1.15 miles to a section of open farmland and park next to a gateway. There is an old green gate included in the fence and one gate pillar has been knocked over (as at 9/2/15). This is grid 6084 4726 Cross the field to its far right corner where a gate leads you into a field of heather and grass. Cross this field to its lowest point, where you can cross the fence (It has been stretched by people in the past!) This is at grid 61057 47609 About 10m lower down the slope is a large pink buoy, marking a metal stake and a rope which guides the way down. (Do not rely on this for your security!) The buoy is at grid 61068 47610 From the bottom of the rope, go down a bit until you can traverse easily to the right (grid 61114 47623) below the middle crag and above the lower one. Three areas of rock have been developed to date. An upper, middle and lower crag, the latter being tidal. OS Grid Reference: C60844726 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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| The Upper Wall Climbs (see on-line topos in this section) |
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HVS 5aLength: 20m A. Millar D.Millar 5.06.04 This is on the "Upper Wall". Continue up the hill (avoiding brambles) past "Middle Wall" It starts as for "Cyclops" and climbs crack straight to the top. Finishing pleasantly up thin finger crack on right, or more easily up short body width crack on left.
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Length: 20m A. Millar D Millar S. Hamilton 4.06.04 On Upper Crag, climbs the next crag left of Scabby Tales. At Half height traverse right a few metres to reach large flake and straight up good crack above.
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HVS 5bLength: 18m Al Millar , J.Boyle & P.Cooper 1.3.03 Takes the slightly left trending crack near the right side of Upper Wall. The crack thins before half height and a thin well protected move leads to easier rock, and soon after, the top
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| Next climbs are on the wall up and right of 'Scabby Tails..' |
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VD 4aLength: 50m Alan Tees, Martin Mcguigan, alt leads 13/06/09 A "traditional" VDiff route with an Alpine feel to it, and very varied climbing in good situations. Scramble up right of the "Tombstone" into a bay at the right hand side of the wall containing "I was belayed by a Cyclops" etc. Climb the crack leading to the ridge above and continue left, up the exposed ridge to belay at the top. Climb the Gendarme behind, and finish up the wall either behind the gendarme, or further left, just left of a short chimney ans belay at a big leaning rock. Great route to practice multipitching said Marty!
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S 4aLength: 12m Alan Tees 6/05/09 The "Tombstone" is the aptly named pillar slab left of the slab containing "Machinegun Kelly" etc This takes the "Wrist width" crack up the left side. Nice route.
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VS 4bLength: 12m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan 13/06/09 This takes the lovely right edge of the "Tombstone" Delicate and well protected.
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S 4aLength: 12m Martin McGuigan Bill McGowan, Sept 05 Start, as for "BeeLine" but this curves off left and up to very careful exit.
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Length: 12m Alan Tees,Peter McConnell , Sept 2005 About 5m left of Wheelbarra, a longer similar crack
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Length: 12m Alan Tees, PJ Monaghan Peter McConnell 19/04/09 Start about 2 m left of "Wheelbarra Crack" and climb the steepening wall to where two diagonal cracks rise left wards, just below, and parallel to, the top. Move up left using these for hand and footholds.
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Length: 8m ,Peter McConnell & Alan Tees,, Sept 05 This takes the shortest wide crack on the upper wall above Punic Palace etc
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| The next climbs are on the face to the left of The Main Face. The eye-catching arete is 'Jackass'. Access via abseil or scramble approach to Main Wall's seaward end. |
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Length: 12m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 13/05/08 One metre left of "Jack of Diamonds" climb just right of corner to ledge on left at 2/3 height. Continue to the top.
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VS 4cLength: 12m A.Tees ( 16/05/04) Above and left of the seaward wall is "Middle Crag" which concists of a narrow wall on the left and,stepped back, a broad smooth wall on the right, with an obvious crack up the middle. This route is on the left face. (Left hand crack).
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Length: 12m A.Tees, P.Cooper, D.Ryan, A.Tees, W.Mcgowan 22/05/04 Middle Crag, Left face. Central crackline, about 2m right of "Jack of Diamonds".
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Length: 12m P.Cooper, D.Ryan 22/05/04 Middle Crag, left face. Face between 'Punic Palace' and 'Jackass' slightly run-out in upper/crux area, finish on face to r. of top crack.
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E2 5bLength: 16m D.Millar & P.Cooper March 2003 Follows the arete to the left of the main face on the second tier. Climb the arete with the aid of a crack on the left wall to a sloping ledge at three quarters height. Step down and right to a ledge below a short steep crack. Climb this on good jams to the top. Belay well back.
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| The next climbs are on The Main Face. Access via abseil or scramble approach to Main Wall's seaward end. |
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E1 5bLength: 16m A Millar , J Boyle & P.Cooper 1.03.03 Takes the obvious crack line going up the middle of the clean slab of Middle Wall. Worth a star or 2. The right hand end of this wall has a line put-up by G.Thomas & P.Cooper, at about VS/HVS put up May 2008; yet to be submitted. |
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| The next climbs are on The Seaward Wall, the large wall below and right of The Main Face. Access via scramble approach at Main Wall's seaward end and then down again. These climbs are TIDAL. |
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Length: 60m Martin McGuigan, A.Tees 07/05 Traverse left to right across the upper wall.
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Length: 10m P.Cooper, D.Millar Seaward Crag. 2M r. of large leaning boulder follow cleaned cracklines on face, to niche area, beware exposed grassy finish.
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Length: 12m D.Millar & P.Cooper March 2003 Follows the broken cracks on the left hand side of the lowest tier.
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Length: 12m W.Mcgowan, D.Ryan 22/05/04 Seaward crag. 6M r.of leaning block, deepest crack on this area of the face. Bealy well back,after grassy finish.
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E1 5bLength: 15m P.Cooper, D.Millar The high point of the seaward crag. At start of large footledge is a flake, climb it's face and head up to crack which splits the centre of the high point. Placing gear where you can. ONE REST POINT USED On-sight, cleaned whilst climbing, 1st ascent.
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S 4aLength: 20m Martin McGuigan & Alan Tees This takes the first of two prominent cracklines at the highest part of the wall. Crux at the start.
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Length: 12m D.Millar & P.Cooper March 2003 Follows the broken cracks to the right of Petes E1.
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VD 4aLength: 12m Alan & Peter Tees At the centre of the sea wall is a square depression. Climb straight up from its right hand side, and follow obvious cleaned groove to the top.
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Length: 25m A Millar +J Sittlington 7.12.03 A rising traverse left to right on the lower sea wall with fine airy situations out over the sea. Belaying from the last boulder before the sea, set out across ledge and on to obvious handflake, cross this (Crux) to reach a stance above a short chimney rising out of the sea. Follow the obvious line of weakness rising rightward and follow it to finish.
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