Crag Number: 215

Malin Head (Bamba's Buttress)

Directions: Descend North West from the Tower on Bamba's Crown. You will soon come to the rock and the great chasm below you. There is a hidden descent ramp/ledge (Millennium Ramp) that will take you half-way down and then down climb (Diff) the remainder from its lowest point. Alternatively, you can down climb the broken ridge on the facing North West (Malin Head Shuffle) and make it as easy or as difficult as you think.

OS Grid Reference: C39xxxx

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D -
Length: 120m
Columba McLaughlin
From the Tower on Bamba's Crown descend North West towards the western end of the Chasm between the headland and Bamba's Island. Down climb the ridge taking the line of least resistance. Reclimbing it you can choose to make it as easy or as difficult as you wish as there is a wide choice of alternative moves.
Photo of route D -
Length: 40m
Columba McLaughlin 29 July 2016
Descend 'Malin Head Shuffle' to a point before and below the 'Millennium Ramp' and commence the traverse rightwards keeping as high as possible but always below the 'Millennium Ramp. The full traverse ends at 'Vader's Corner' and you have multiple exit choices. Really good friction and awesome views.
D -
Length: 30m
Columba McLaughlin
Start about 20m to the right of 'Malin Head Shuffle'. Climb to lowest point of the 'Millennium Ramp' and continue up the rock above to join 'Malin Head Shuffle'.
Photo of route D -
Length: 20m
Columba McLaughlin 02/08/2016
Start in a deep pocket beneath the main face about half way between 'Malin Android' and 'Kenobi's Shorty'. Practically straight up with little deviation. Finish at the 'Millennium Ramp' or cross and climb the wall to join the end of the 'Malin Head Shuffle'
D -
Length: 20m
Columba McLaughlin
Start about 4m to the right of 'Malin Android' and climb to the 'Millennium Ramp'. You can descend or climb directly the rock above to join the 'Malin Head Shuffle'
D -
Length: 35m
Columba McLaughlin
This line follows a very defined crack fault to the right of 'Kenobi's Shorty'. It trends leftwards to join the 'Millenium Ramp' and then directly up the rock above this.
D -
Length: 35m
Columba McLaughlin
Just to the right of 'Light Sabre Cut' there is an obvious eroded lava dyke. Climb this to the top of the 'Millennium Ramp'. Best started at its lowest point. Very airy and no safety rail.
VD -
Length: 35m
Columba McLaughlin
Start about 3m to the right of 'Yoda's Staircase' and up the face above. Very exposed and airy.
Photo of route VD -
Length: 22m
Columba McLaughlin 29 July 2016
Traverse on a good ledge to about 5m right of 'Falcon' and close to the left hand edge of 'Vader's Corner'. Initially a scramble but soon steepens (short lived). Poor protection and lots of big air. It can be gained from the lower zawn start of 'Vader's Corner' (length 33m).
Photo of route D -
Length: 32m
Columba McLaughlin 16/7/2016
(A) Airily traverse about 10m right of Falcon to a wide grassy ledge and an obvious corner. Climb the corner. Some cleaning was carried out but some loose rock and grass remains. There are alternative starts. Descend the grassy embankment to the base of the narrow zawn and (B) a short overhanging wall (not climbed on this visit) OR (C) climb the obvious fault 1m to the right of the overhang to small ledge and then to the grassy ledge and up the corner.
Photo of route D -
Length: 32m
Columba McLaughlin 16/7/2016
From the Tower head west along the fence and carefully descend the grass embankment to the narrow zawn directly beneath the main face of the buttress. Start in the niche as for Banba's Traverse and climb to the small grassy ledge and then directly up the corner. 
Photo of route D -
Length: 140m
Columba McLaughlin 02/08/2016
From the Tower head west along the fence and carefully descend the grass embankment to the narrow zawn directly beneath the main face of the buttress. Start as for 'Vaders Corner' and climb to the grassy ledge directly below the corner. Move left to the start of 'Beam me up Luke' and climb this for 3 meters and then traverse left keeping below the 'Millennium Ramp'. Finish up the 'Malin Android'  or continue left and finish up the 'Malin Head Shuffle'. A really enjoyable outing with good friction. Hand holds are not always always as positive.

Left of Bamba's buttress, and around the corner, is a small steep black wall, facing the end of Dunaldragh Island.
Photo of route HS 4a
Length: 10m
Marty McGuigan, George Carleton 5/05/19
Left of Bamba's Buttress, go around the corner and locate a short steep black wall facing the east end of Dunaldragh Island.  Scramble down to slanting platform and climb the most obvious line of weakness towards the seaward end. Steep but the difficulties are short
S 3c
Length: 8m
Alan Tees, Alfie Conn 16/06/19
Takes a line up the right hand side of the steep black wall.
VD 4a
Length: 10m
Alan Tees, Alfie Conn 16/06/19
Start below and left of Blackbird if the sea permits ( otherwise traverse along the ledge past Blackbird) go around the edge and climb the  twisted corner, with some initial difficulty.