Name: Gola Hiking with Fermanagh Ramblers and climb with Abe
Start: 2025-07-27T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-07-28T23:59:59+00:00

Crag Number: 231

Doagh Island - Castles

Directions: On the tip of the Isle of Doagh at Carrickabraghy Castle are two rock outcrops separated by a small stoney beach. On the back of the more westerly outcrop is a small but steep seaward facing wall extending up sharply from a large ramp accessible from the beach with some boulder hopping at low tides, abseil or from the top via a steep leftwards trending down climb along a fault in the middle of the wall (not for faint of heart). The climbing can be steep but largely on good positive big holds. Behind Carrickabraghy castle itself is a larger outcrop of rock with some not uninteresting and airy scrambling / soloing. The middle of the outcrop features a north facing easy angled slab with small holds on hard pleasant rock with many route potentials in the easier grades, some variations soloed. The seaward side of the outcrop has some steeper short walls with easier short and wide vertical cracks and potential for harder short bouldery routes. Directions: From Carndonagh to Ballyliffin road turn off to right onto the Isle of Doagh to follow signs for the Famine Village. Continue on this road around and rather than taking right hand turn to famine village continue up and over the hill which overlooks five finger strand to Carrickabraghy castle where there is parking at stoney beach just under the castle. OS Grid Reference: Click here to view location in Google Maps
1 - A - Little Banks D - Length: 10m Jack Ledwith 20/5/2025 Short route on big flaky jugs. Starting from middle of ramp to main ledge. Follow small vertical crack up obvious line of least resistance to top.
2 - B - Toothy S 4a Length: 10m Jack Ledwith, Kealan Dunlop 20/05/2025 From the big ledge follow the corner crack on the far left hand side of the to deep groove. Continue left over slight overhanging bulge through groove to top. Well protected.
3 - C - Bloody Mary HVS 5b Length: 10m Kealan Dunlop, Jack Ledwith 20/05/2025 In middle of ledge on overhanging wall follow vertical crack to sloped ledge at halfway with good holds. Avail of opportunity to place some gear and continue right up fault line to top. Great climbing on positive holds. Sustained overhang throughout. Short but very pumpy. HVS, maybe E1? First ascent done with one rest on gear.
4 - D - Project HVS - Length: 10m Project Tight climbing, shy on gear and hard to place. HVS/E1 possibly.
5 - E - Castle Magic S 4a Length: 20m Jack Ledwith, Kealan Dunlop 20/05/2025 On the highest point of the crag this route starts on a flat boulder at the water line quite likely only accessible at low tide. From the start climb up onto first arête which leads to a wide obvious groove that continues to the top. Easier and harder variations possible by continuing on arête or escaping under final overhang to the left. Nice exposure over water at top. Access via steep scramble or abseil.