Colmcille Climbers

At the seaward end of the inlet is a wide crack just left of the overhang. Probably only accessible at low tide. Climb the arete on its right to the horizontal fault. Hand-traverse back left to a large ledge. Continue up the crack line which gives fine straightforward climbing on jams and jugs to the highest point of the buttress.

Takes the wide crack directly below the upper part of Aquamarine. Wriggle up into this and fight your way to the large horizontal break. Belay on ledge or continue straight up Aquamarine to the top. Check the tide times in advance unless you enjoy climbing in wellies.

Starting on the wee tidal ledge climb smooth arete on right (as for Aquamarine) to the horiziontal fault, continue steeply up handcrack/flake to a hand off rest. (thug crux) Continue direct up center of slabby face through 2 roofs on increasingly difficult rock to top out at center of slab.(tech crux)

Pointed Sticks * VS 5a (I.Miller, Kenny 21/06/07) An easier finish to Fresh Fruit, from hands off rest trend leftward to join Aquamarine and continue up this route to top.

Moaning Myrtle * HVS 5b (I.miller, K.Mcgee 15/05/05) Yet another alternative finish to Fresh Fruit, from hands of rest trend/traverse right to join diagonal fault in center of Albatros face, climb fault with considerable exposure to top. (carefull belay stance position on top required to ensure seconds safety)

Climb the obvious corner crack 4m left of "Albatross," once under the monster roof swing out left and gain the horror offwidth. Thrutch the offwidth to the summit.

Start at bottom righthand side of the cave below 'Albatross'.

Climb the obvious diagonal crack leftwards to reach a sloping ledge below a square recess. Hand traverse left to a 2nd recess above the arete. Continue round corner towards ledge and finish straight up shattered groove; as for 'Aquamarine'. Alternatively, belay on the ledge and split the climb into 2 pitches to cut down on rope drag.

3m left of (Best Possible Taste H S ) Start at sea level and climb the corner right up to the roof. Undercut hand traverse out to a small nose of rock. Stand on this and hand jam back up the crack to another small recess. Easier climbing to the top.

Start as for Best Possible Taste. When you reach an obvious undercut on the steep left wall make a tricky move left to the base thin crack, then follow it to the top.

The crack line just left of Saco. Go up, and then traverse left to the crack, which is followed to the top.

Start as Best Possible Taste, when the crack is gained move right onto slab and climb to under overlap at 3/4 height, using the flake on the right make a hard move to gain the finishing ledge

A deep cut chimney with jammed chock- tone.

Climb the excellent juggy arete to the right of "Saco."

Starting 2m right of "Tom's Dinner," climb the right hand flake crack to a stance below the steep wall, climb the steep wall and continue direct jug hauling up between horizontal breaks and blank rock.  

Climb the full crag height fault/crack 4 meters to the right of Tom's Diner.

A meter to the right of "High Tide Alternative" climb the full crag height fault/crack.

2 meters to the right of "High & Dry" at the top of the steep ramp, climb the full crag height hand crack, direct with and excellent wee crux mid height.

Safe & Sound (Flying Doctor finish) HS 4a

FA I.Miller, R. Brennan 01/07/07

Climb to mid height crux and traverse right along the wee roof. Continue to top up faultline.

Climb the flake up the centre of the wall

As you walk in for 'Saco' et al, on the upper approach, this is the first bit of rock that gains any worthwhile height on the right (always debatable, but lets see you jump off it!). With 3 right-to-left trending breaks, this is the route. No great shakes but nice enough.

In the middle of the Zawn opposite Saco and Best Possible Taste is a large slabby rock. On the far side of this is an obvious crack with a large platform on the right at 1/3 height. Climb this and either continue up the crack (a bit slimy) or climb the flake on the left hand wall. Continue up the lichen-covered headwall on the left using the horizontal breaks.

Follow Seagull until horizontal break is gained on the left, follow this to the arete and rejoin seagull to the top

Climb the chimney in the corner between seagull and Crackn Slab

To the right of Seagull, climb the flake up the middle of the 40 degree overhanging wall on monster jugs and continue more easily up the middle of the slab above.

Climbs the right side of the roof 2m right of Crackn Slab. From the ground follow the steep crack to the big ledge, from here move right using a big flake and back left onto the slab

Starts 4m left of Captain Birdseyes Reactilites beneath a rightward trending groove which starts at half height. Climb the steep lower wall via hidden juggy underclings to start and then reach high for good edge on the right. From here enter the main groove via good sidepulls in the small groove on left. Climb the main /cornergroove for 2m then step left and follow the 2 obvious diagonal cracks leftwards for a satisfying finish.

The zawn is spit in two by a wall of rock as you face the sea. Facing the sea, the left hand zawn can be approached passing two huge detached boulders on its right hand side. This route climbs the first obvious groove and wall above on the right side after you pass the 2 detached blocks. Sustained bouldery moves to start, in the groove either direct or coming in from the right to better handholds in higher diagonal crack. High step to diagonal crack and easier ground. Finish direct up the wall above. Note: First Ascent solo,d using bouldering mat at base.

takes the overhanging arete right of "Captain Birdseyes Reactilites" to a good hold at the base of the crack mantle this and finish easily up the slab

On the left as you enter the zawn, climb the huge fallen block leaning against the face and continue up the center of the slab above.

As for  "Slab Fest" climb the fallen block and follow the left trending groove on the steep wall above.

Climb the fallen block and follow the slopey breaks leading to a right trending crack high on the face. (excellent jug in slot to left just below summit)