Crag Number: 51
Culdaff - Dunowen (Pinnacle Bay) |
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Himalayan Wall, Pinnacle Bay -
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Directions: The old fishermens' permissive path connecting Dunowen Wall with the other crags beyond has been closed by the landowner. The locals are not happy about it, but nothing is likely to be done, so use a different approach to these crags. On regaining the Culdaff/Glengad road from Bunagee, turn right, and take the first right again, up the hill, past another turn to the right, and park in a small quarry on the left. Just beyond this is a cart track on the edge of a field (close wire gate after you) which leads down past a small byre, into a field, which gives access, over a tumble down wall, to the rough ground above the shore. Brazil Rock is on the left, but turn right, cross a stream, and if the tide is out, you can get to Pinnacle Bay around the coast by the boulders in the bay. If the tide is in it is necessary to go over the top of the cliff, and descend a ramp under 'Himalayan Wall'. OS Grid Reference: C536513 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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Length: 10m B.Bogle,C.Tees, A. Bogle, P.Coulter 20/06/92 The smaller of two pinnacles in Pinnacle Bay. Start in the gap between the two pinnacles.
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VS 4cLength: 12m First led ascent Martin McGuigan (Route Lasooed cleaned and climbed A.Tees, T. Philson 31/07/95 Climbs the higher of two pinnacles in the bay. Gain horizontal crack from the gap, move out left above the sea, and continue up on small holds.
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VD Length: 8m A,Tees,various,& The G.P.L. This climbs the short off-width on the west face of the pinnacle at tne East end of pinnacle bay. Surmount the off-width on good holds,to ledge & right to top. Descent by abseil. Good fun,
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HS 4bLength: 20m Alan Tees, Anindya Mukherjee, Peter Cooper 9/10/07 An Indo, Anglo, Irish route in appreciation of Capt. Haddock, on the wall just opposite "Pouting Pinnacle" at the East end of Pinnacle bay. The route takes the obvious wide crack in the side (facing the pinnacles) wall. Start just right of the crack, then follow it to a ledge on the left, just below the top. Up the left (thinner) crack to the top.
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| The top of the following Thessalonians Arete Routes are accessed from
land than is now out of bounds, so they cannot be kept vegetation
free. It is still possible to climb them to a big block on the arete
and abseil off, but this will become increasingly unpleasent. |
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No length recorded Andy Tees, Tim Philson 9/05/99 Just left of Aries is a small triangular niche at about 3m. (Directly above a low overhang). Bridge up to the niche and stretch to gain a good hold. Continue up over rocking flake and as difficulties ease, bear right to avoid vegetation.
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Length: 30m Frankie McCloskey, Neil Mahone Climb the crack of "Aries" from ground level.
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VS 4cLength: 30m A.Tees, K.Gallagher 2/04/93 Approx. 3M left of Utmost Good Faith is an obvious wide clean corner at about 3m height. Gain the corner on small holds and continue until you can make a long step left into crack, which is climbed to ledge above the corner.. Continue straight up to join Thessalonians belay.
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HS 4bLength: 30m Alan Tees, Kieran Gallagher 2/04/93 On the other side of the spur is a shallow cave, which is bridged to reach a ledge above. Continue on jugs to reach a leaning pillar in a corner. Move onto the pillar and gain a small ledge above (crux). Continue up recess to join Thessalonians.
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HS 4aLength: 30m Alan Tees, Kieran Gallagher In Pinnacle Bay is an obvious spur thst runs out from a vegetated cliff behind the pinnacles. Climb the end of the spur via a shallow corner to the first pinnacle, cross the short arete to the second Thessalonian which is climbed on its left. Belay, and csoss the secong arete and up grass to the top.
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S 4aLength: 12m Kieran Gallagher, Alan Tees 2/04/93 A forgotten route which takes the red corner left of Jericho
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S 4aLength: 30m Alan tees, Kieran Gallagher 2/04/93 Takes the obvious pillar up the right hand side of the Thessalonians arete. Much better than it looks!
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| Himalayan Wall provides the longest routes at Dunowen and some of the
best. Despite the access problem at the top, it is still possible to
traverse in from the west side staying outside the fence, and ab down
to clean the routes. The eastern routes have become overgrown (
Satanic Verses to Carthage) but the better quality lines to the west
of the face are well worth keeping clean. |
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Length: 30m Alan Tees,Peter Cooper. 10/08/02 At the extreme L.H.S. of the "Himalayas Area",about 10m left of Carthage,is an undercut tower. Start below and left, scramble up to stand on a small ledge. Move right along a horizontal toe crack,and a committing move (crux) leads to more substantial holds,& up left to corner. Continue up steeply to jugs and ledge. Climb diedre above, keeping left of arete.
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Length: 25m A.Tees, Pete Smith, R.Moore, P.Cooper. 7/08/02 Left of the corner, left of Carthage, is a wide crack which is climbed to a ledge. Continue up corner above & follow bulldozer trail to grassy terrace on right. Traverse right to rocky rib, & finish as for Rhum Doodle/Savage Slut.
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Length: 25m Alan & Andy Tees Start as for Caveat Emptor(climb jamming crack to ledge),step right & follow groove up some mostly sound (but disturbing looking) rock, to the top.
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Length: 30m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 19/03/2000 This takes the central crack on the "Return Wall" left of Rhumdoodle. Crux is about one third height where a buldge in the fissure is surmounted on a good undercut.
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S 4aLength: 30m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 19/03/2000 This starts up the prominent arete that forms the "Bend" at the left hand end of the Himalayas cliff. Pull up over blocky spike to slab, and move up left of arete to gain ramp. Delicate moves at the top of the ramp leadr to easier climbing rightward to cleaned ledge. From far side of ledge step out right onto exposed slab and continue to the top, exiting off a sharp edge at the top of Fulmar.
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Length: 30m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 19/03/2000 This takes the obvious cracks up the wall right of Rhumdoodle to a recess just below the top of the wall (Rest!). Pull up onto cleaned ledge and finish as for Rhumdoodle.
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VS 4cLength: 30m Bill Magowan, Alan Tees 8/04/2000 Two metres right of Savage Slut, gain ledge and continue past large flake and two slabby corners. An awkward move out of the second corner is required, before an airy step out right to climb two small overhangs on good holds and gear. A varied route.
Previously called "Polecat Retreat"
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Length: 25m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees.21/09/02 Takes the big chimney just left of Eviction Notice. Start directly below, and move up to gain short corner(avoiding more grotty approach on right). Continue up, and chimney up the outside,(avoiding the back) to a platform on the left. Step across right, & swing around the corner to finish up the L.H.S. of Eviction slab.
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Length: 35m Paul Dunlop, Raymond Dunlop Takes the obvious steep undulating ramp left of Flight of Fancy. Thin, but it has a good corner crack high on the right.
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Length: 35m Alan Tees, V.Russell 3/09/93 2-3 metres left of Himalayan Dream, climb zig- zag finger cracks, and continue up the left hand edge of the wall roughly parallel with Himalayan Dream through cleft and upper wall.
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Length: 30m Alan Tees, Paul Robinson 3/09/93 The original route on the wall follows a line of cracks starting one metre left of Bawg and trending slightly leftwards to gain corner high on the wall.
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VS 4cLength: 20m Frankie McCloskey, Pete Smith 16/05/99 At the right hand side of Himalayan Wall there is a triangular roofed niche just right of Himalayan Dream. Climb crack to sloping ledge and continue up to overhang. Finish up wide stepped crack.
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