Crag Number: 61

King Mintiagh (Barnanmore)

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Barnanmore (King Mintiagh) - A/. Ballymoney Line.
B/. Jackdaw Chimney.
C/. Mayfly.
D/. Crocolile Rock.
E/. Sabre Cut.
F/. Sabre Rattler.
G/. Aeolius.
H/. Arctic Fox.

Directions:

This is a pleasant little Dolerite Plug about 9.5 K East of Buncrana, on the northern footslopes of Slieve Snacht. The routes are mostly in the easier grades, and some care is needed with loose rock.

Follow the Buncrana/Carndonagh Mountain road until the "Plug" becomes visible on the road's southside. Limited parking available at a gateway opposite the crag, which is a 10-ish minute walk up the hill.

OS Grid Reference: C393410

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NORTH SIDE

Furthest left faces, as seen when facing crag. Routes left to right.


Photo of route S 4a
Length: 10m
N. McLaughlin and C. McLaughlin 26th March 2004
This takes a right slanting groove on the third short wall to the left of rocky outcrop of 'Baby Stew'. The climb can be gained by various starts.
Photo of route S 3c
Length: 10m
C.Mclaughlin and N. McLaughlin 26th March 2004
To the left of the rocky outcrop where baby Stew is there are three short walls. This route takes the prominant cantral crack on the 2nd of these short walls.
VD 3c
Length: 8m
S Hamilton, R Groves (5/78)
Centre of the closest small out crop to the left of the main crag. a strenuous finger climb following small but adequate holds to the top.

The most obvious feature on the North Side is Jackdaw Gully and these climbs are up inside it.
S 4a
Length: 8m
M.Manson, A.Tees.
This route follows the obvious crack about 2m left of Irene's Chimney
D -
Length: 8m
Alan & Irene Tees 1975
Straightforward chimney at the back of Jackdaw Gully.
*
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 15m
A Tees, R J Lee (6/76)
Climb the prominent chimney at the base of the gully past the nest to a grassy ledge. Step across the gap at the chimney's top and traverse right to the end of a cramped and exposed ledge and up to the top.
*
HVS 5a
Length: 15m
P Chatterley, D Campbell and party (23/8/80)
The chimney is capped on its right by a series of overhangs. Climb these direct until a move towards the right-hand edge on small holds gives good hand jamming and bridging in the final crack. (Crux). Continue to the top, the belay is well back. The climb is well protected.

The next climbs are right of Jackdaw Gully
S 4a
Length: 20m
S Hamilton, A Tees (5/77)
Start: At the bottom of the crag about 8m right of Jackdaw Chimney. Climb up on good holds to stand on the top of a spike (about half-way up). Pull up past a heather filled niche (crux) and pick your route to the top. .
D -
Length: 18m
D Reid, A Tees (5/78)
This follows a prominent rough edge about 6m right of Mayfly.

A short wall can be seen up above a grassy slope
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 10m
Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 29/09/07
This takes the right hand side of the slab, bounded on its right by the short "Sabrecut" chimney. Move left above crux, and finish to the highest point.
S
Length: 6m
NWMC (Early 1980s)
Takes the deep off-width at the top and to the right of the Tear Drop Buttress.

Back down and right
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 15m
Alan Tees, Peter Cooper, 28/08/07
On the right hand side of the grassy bay bounded on the left by "Crocodile Rock" and on the right by "KIng Minch" is a wide crack, which is gained from a ledge, and then up left on good holds. Move up the crack, and step out left and climb delightfully to the top.

There are 2 climbs on the short wall above 'Artic Fox'.
*
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 8m
P.Cooper & A. Tees 29/09/07

4m right of 'Sabre Cut' and 3M left of 'Aeolius'. Start below and right of an overlap, climb up and then step left; once above overlap. Finish up short left-facing shallow corner. Short and exposed, gear a little lacking (Rps/small wires needed).


Photo of route VS 5b
Length: 7m
P.Cooper & A. Tees 30/08/07

Climb the crackline r. of centre, finishing directly above it. Good sport on excellent, but short, rock.


*
Photo of route VD
Length: 20m
A Tees, D Reid (5/78)
About 1Om right of Crocodile Rock locate large cracks at the base of crag and climb them to a ledge. Traverse left to edge and move up in footholds to heather and up to base of more cracks. Climb these and finish with a leftward trending crack in the back wall.
*
Photo of route VS 4c
Length: 12m
T McKenna, FMcCloskey (14/11/93)
Between 'King Minch' and 'O'Doherty's Keep' there is a steep south facing cracked wall. The route follows the face between the crack and arete. Climb finishes over'V' shaped groove at the top. Poor protection with small holds. Descent on right down an awkward gully.
Photo of route VD
Length: 15m
S Hamilton, A Tees (7/77)
Follow the wide crack on the right of 'Crazy paving', just around the corner from King Minch (to its right). An awkward move near the top.

Next routes are across a gully to the right where a short steep wall can be identified by a pair of left-facing corners.
VS 4c
Length: 10m
M McGinty, Z Stephenson (8/8/00)
This route takes an obvious offwidth crack (?)on the left-hand side of the rock outcrop. From an awkward stance, climb the off-width into the corner and then up the wall to finish.
VS 5a
Length: 9m
Peter Cooper (un-seconded) 19/08/07

On the r. of 'Flaky Pastry' are a corner and then a groove/shallow corner. The groove is climbed to an overlap, aim for rock spike. Whilst short, the rock is good; gear ends just below crux.



Next route is approx. 10M right of Flaky Pastry and Choux, directly behind a large pointed boulder.
VD
Length: 10m
NWMC (Early 1980s)
Directly behind a large pointed boulder, awkwardly climb the wall to a ledge; go left and then easily up the top.
Photo of route VD
Length: 8m
C & N McLaughlin (15/8/98)
3 metres to the right of `Monty' is a visible groove. Start at the right hand edge, traverse left into the groove, which is climbed on good handholds and bridging. Locate a high jug and gain the overlap. Exit to top through the V slot.
Photo of route VD
Length: 8m
N & C McLaughlin (15/8/98)
Start as for `Sionainn's Groove' and climb the edge to the top, without using holds on `Sionainn's Groove' or the slab on the right.

The next route is located on an outcrop down the hill, approx 4 mins walk.
HS 4b
Length: 12m
T. McKenna, F. McCloskey (14/11/93)
Climb a diagonal crack with a chockstone at 3/4 height, on the left portion of the bottom outcrop; 1M right of a separating gully.

The next routes are around the back of summit plug ("opposite side of the hill"), on very good rock.
VD
Length: 8m
M. McLucas, S. Hamilton (3/97)
This route takes the corner of the short steep capped wall at the extreme left hand edge of the wall, to exit left of overhang.
* *
Photo of route VS 5b
Length: 9m
P.Cooper (unseconded) 29/09/07
The crack-line direct, without deviation.
HS 4b
Length: 8m
M McLucas, S Hamilton (8/97)
Just right of'Pulp Fiction' climb broken crack until it thins out after large obvious foothold. Step right onto arete to finish.

The next routes are situated at the far right hand side of the buttress, before a gully.
Photo of route S 4b
Length: 7m
P.Cooper & A. Tees 19/09/07
A direct start below the, now dug-out, crack of 'Blonde Accesory' gives pleasant enough climbing. This climb doesn't replace 'BA', just gives a more natural clean line.
S 3c
Length: 7m
M McLucas, S Hamilton (8/97)
At the extreme right of the wall, climb to a grassy ledge at halfway, step left, and finish up crack.