Colmcille Climbers

At the left end of Finbarr Wall is a pillar with a block at the top, just left of a big nest. Start just under, and climb a faint arete slightly rightwards, to reach a steep cracked wall. Exit via a mantleshelve onto the block at the top. Far better than looks suggest.

3m left of 'Waiting for Cyril'.On the left of the flared rough cracks is smoother equally steep rock forming an apex to the rockface Climb towards the top spike, making a thin move left onto the smooth slab to finish. (Belay just below the final top-out.)NOTE the gear gets thinner the higher you get. Additionaly this may be 5c, comments welcome from future ascensionists.

Climb the corner obvious clean cut corner.

Climb the slabby wall/arete on the right of 'Waiting for Cyril'.

This climbs up and into the hanging corner left of The Nameless. Steeply jam and bridge up this, exiting right at the top.

This climbs the line a couple of metres left of the corner of a big spike. Continue directly into a niche and over the overhang on blocky holds. One in the eye for over-graders.

Pumpy, satisfying climbing up the groove left of Other Fish. Start on top of the big boulder. Go up the little corner and step left onto the little ramp. Up this, and straight up the steep wall above using handfuls of rough holds. Exciting.

The steep, blank-looking, wall between 'Zodiac' and 'RuthIess People'. Boulder up on positive holds to get stood on these. Gear in fine horizontal break. A perplexing rock-up up and right leads to a good hold shared with 'Ruthless People'. Traverse left to a vertical crack, proceed up this to finish. At the upper end of the grade.

Desperate climbing up the crack on the right, strenuous and fingery. Start at the bottom of the grass ramp. A bout of sporadic snatching allows upward momentum, past a couple of wires (hard to place) and a good hold to be caught on the horizontal break left of the crack. Place small wires here, and strike on directly to the top. Brilliant

Corner of first bay right of 'Ruthless People'. 2nd ascent by Alan Tees, same day.

Start below and to the right of Calamari Corner.  A steep finger pull up onto the arête above, leads to the wall to the right of the corner.  Move out right to the edgeand continue up on small holds and horizontal breaks.

To the right of Ruthless People and 1/2 way up the descent corner place a belayer. The climber now climbs a leftward traversing route, until below a step in the headwall; climb up to this for finish. A deceptively pumpy line, otherwise it would be E1. Peter Cooper's last new line before that accident.

Traversing further left into finish shared with Other Fish would merit 5c.

Right of Calamari Corner is a step wall.  This route climbs a steep edge to a ledge, surmounts a spike just below a hanging corner.  To levitate above the spike looks problematic but divine handholds appear, and the same individual provides a couple of little toe holds, just reachable.  Ascent into the corner, up to a small platform and right, to the top.

5m left of Dunmore Damage is a stepped arete. Climb the first step by a leaning rightward trending crack. Up onto another block and up the groove on the arete.

  Just left of ‘Mosquito’ is an alcove, with a large clod of earth and vegetation at the bottom.  At the RHS of this is a wall split by two cracks forming a V. Take the wider righthand crack to a ledge, then step up onto a boulder and climb the arete above.  Mosquito can be used to protect, and possibly assist, getting up onto the arete.  Doing it direct is about 4c.  

Start as for ‘Love in the time of Corona’, but climb the LH crack, step left onto the wall, and climb it up to the overhang. Large flakes provide big holds as you make a dramatic step right onto a foothold on the lip of the roof. Easy to the top.

      Start just right of ‘Mosquito’, on 2 short wide cracks to ledge.  A thin move right, and climb a pair of narrow shallow corners to the top.  

Just left of Dunmore Damage is a small undercut slab. Go up its left edge. Then lay back up the next arete to the final slab below the summit. Go straight up this. Escapable but very pleasant, especially in the middle.

Start as for Dunmore Damage and go up the corner for a few metres until below the niche. Go up to this and the top. Lovely holds and good nut protection.

The next niche left of Finbarrs Furry Fissure. Up onto jammed rock, right to ledge and straight up the face just left of the arete.

This takes the arête just right of Dunmore Damage.  Start as for Finbarr's Furry Fissure and move left to the arête. A long reach secures a pocket (crux) and continue up the arête to the top on good holds.

The prominent fist crack just left of "Redford Classic". Overcome buldge, up crack easily (great thread on the edge). At the top of the crack step left and finish up fine airy rock.

Right, and below the other routes, but on the same rockband, is a prominent corner, overhung half way up. Bridge up to the overhang to gain good jugs, and continue up the corner on delightful rock.

Centre of wall, on immediate right of redford Classic. Start at the toe of the short slab, continue through small overlaps; direct direct for the top. Nice one-star line, with a scenic top-out; depending on the weather. Grade confirmed at HS.

Takes the external corner right of Redford Classic, and just right of Inistrahull.

About 10m further right from "Redford Classic" is an obvious crackline on the right wall of a corner. Climb the thin crack, step right and continue up it's big sister.

At the east end of Dunmore Head is a great cave ( about 5 minutes walk from the other Finbarr routes) and on the east side of the cave is a black slab of compact rock.  Short scramble descent on the left.  Creole slab, has many possibilities on numerous cracks on great rock, alas a bit short!  Creole Girl takes the obvious crack from the lowest part of the corner at low tide. Just right of a shallow depression in the centre.

This takes a steep crackline up the end wall of the next promontory to the south east of Creole Slab. Short but strenuous and worth a star of two.

Back along the coastal rocks in a south easterly direction (nearer Finbarr wall) follow a slabby promontory running roughly parallel to the coast and separated by a narrow channel on the right. At the end of this, the angle of the cliff steepens to give some climbing on remarkable rock. Pocket Rocket is the most obvious corner feature, climbed using (mostly pockets) of course. Could probably be scrambled down to, but abseil to a ledge is easy, certainly at lowish tides.

A few metres left of Pocket Rocket, climb a fin of rock, and straight up the steep wall above, on brilliant holds, to its highest point. Pity it wasn't longer.

A metre or two right of Pocket Rocket, go straight up the steep wall on a selection of pockets and finger fissures.  Brilliant and worth stars.

Seaward from Pocket Rocket etc, descend a few metres to a ledge, and do a' coasteer' on the amazing parallel cracks in the wall, until they run out or you fall in the sea.