Editor: Errigal | |
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Crag Profile: Errigal |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Errigal Mountain, Donegal's highest point, it's south ridge route is climbed by thousands on an annual basis. However, this mountain provides potential scramblin and rock climbing routes on it's North, West and East faces. Access to these faces is by the winding B road travelling North from the Dunlewy Hamlet. Discretion and considerate parking on this small farm road are required. The excellent Dunlewy centre, just to the south of the hamlet, displays current information regarding access to the North side of this mountain. OS Grid Reference: B928207 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Tower Ridge
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VD Length: 180m Columba McLaughlin and Noel McLaughlin October 1999 A superb Donegal mountain ridge climbing experience with some very fine and exposed positions. Access Errigal’s North West face from the northern farm access road, be careful where you park. Errigal's Tower Ridge faces NNW and takes time to dry out after rain. Start at the eastern (left hand)base of the ridge and scramble up and over rocky obstacles (very greasy when wet and poor protection) until the base of the 1st Tower is reached. This point can also be accessed directly. From here scramble up the Eastern edge of the 1st Tower until a narrow ramp allows access back to the centre of the tower. There is a belay below the Finger (projecting Block). Easier going from here until the top of the 1st Tower and a good belay position. There is a good view of the narrow 'Staircase' from here. Scramble up the 5 steps of ‘The Staircase’ (2nd Tower). Be careful of the 3rd step which is loose, very narrow and poorly protected. Climb the block at the top to gain a good ledge and access to the top of ‘The Ramp’ and a bombproof belay position. Walk past the top of the ramp to the base of the 3rd Tower and gain the right hand skyline ridge for a short airy and unprotected scramble to the col with the NWMC Ridge and then a pleasant dander up to the 2nd Summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Raven's Nest Gully
D -Length: 22m Columba McLaughlin and Martin McGuigan August 2010 Route is high on the Raven's Nest Buttress which abuts onto the western aspect of the 3rd tower of Errigal's Tower Ridge. The climb starts about 4 metres to the left of Rock 'n' Boots and is a defined gully. Somewhat damp to start but gets drier. Be careful of a loose block about 2/3rds height. Exit onto Raven's Nest Ridge (loose and hairy) and east to col with summit of Tower Ridge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - The NWMC Route
Length: 300m North West Mountaineering Club 1950s An excellent airy scrambling mountain that is renowned as the Connoisseur Hill walker’s route to Donegal’s highest summit. Members of the North West Mountaineering Club have been climbing it since the 1950s and the route has the potential to be as easy or as hard as you want it to be. It is an excellent route in both summer and winter conditions but the rock can be very greasy when wet so care must be taken. The ridge faces 10 NNE, is poorly protected but can always be avoided by a winding path on the western flank. At the Northern base of the mountain, make your way up a short scree slope and gain some rocky blocks and scramble up to the Col. These blocks can be avoided on the right hand flank. From the col, locate a sloping slab with a very visible off-width crack high on the eastern flank of the ridge. Climb this crack and step right and follow the ridge from here. The best line is to make sure that you always have a good view down the Eastern Face of the mountain and a view of 'Tower Ridge' on the Western flank. Follow the ridge until you come to a high rock that has an overhanging base. To escape, you can scramble off to the western flank. However, it is best avoided on the eastern side and after 4 metres scramble back up to the ridge and follow the ridge until you meet the walker's path on the western flank. From here it is a pleasant dander up to the col with ‘Tower Ridge’ and then onto Errigal’s Summit. For me, it’s definitely a 3 star route *** View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Rock 'n' Boots v1
VD Length: 25m D O'Connor, Shane Taggart High on the North West Face above and to the right of the Ridge Legs [Tower Ridge] the rock spans out into a buttress type formation. This route takes the far right edge for a nice bit of VD climbing in ur boots. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Jackdow Ridge
Length: 70m Martin McGuigan and Columba McLaughlin August 2010 To the west of Errigal's Tower Ridge and lower down there are 3 pinnacles of dark brown rock that form a pleasant ridge. The climb commences at the lower end of the ridge and follows the ridge line over 2 of these pinnacles. The summit ridge of the 3rd pinnacle has very suspicious blocks and was not climbed on this occasion. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Raven
VD -Length: 22m Martin McGuigan and Columba McLaughlin Aug 2010 A very nice climb high on Errigal's North West Face. The climb is on the western face of the 3rd pinnacle above Jackdown Ridge and commences about 10 metres from the western edge. Follow a midline fault on good holds from right to left. Exit onto a a large shelf and then move left onto ridge via an opening. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Wee Bird
Length: 6m Columba McLaughlin About 5 metres to the right of Raven there is a shortcut climb / bouldering problem up onto the shelf above Raven. This can be used for the descent from the shelf as well. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||