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Editor: Rathlin O'Byrne

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Crag Profile: Rathlin O'Byrne

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: Rathlin O'Byrne SW3 This is an island situated about 2.5km off the coast from Malin Beg, and is a familiar sight to most who climb there (it is the one with the lighthouse). From Malin Beg it appears to be a large mound of grass and rock rising out of the sea about 2.5km away. It is, but surprisingly is not completely uninteresting from the rock-climber's point of view. The island is divided by two chasms, plus another sizeable zawn, all with virgin rock similar to that on Malin Beg. The following routes were done on the east-facing side of the second chasm. Approach from Malin Beg harbour by sea kayak. There is a considerable number of unclimbed lines here of all grades. , Descent is by abseil from a rocky pinnacle left of the finish of Footsteps In the Sand (see below)

OS Grid Reference: 490795

1 - Footsteps in the Sand
VS 4c
Length: 21m
G Walker,J Sheilds (13/7/90)
Footsteps in the Sand* 21 m VS.4c Left of Robinson Crusoe (see below) is an obvious corner leading to the top of the crag. The route follows the obvious slab and corner. Small wires can be placed in the corner, and the crux is at two-thirds height. A good route.
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10 - The Bluffer 12m D
D -
Length: 12m
C Shannon, G Henry (25/7/00)
Climb the obvious deep chimney three metres to the left of the previous route.
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2 - Robinson Crusoe
VD -
Length: 20m
J Shields, G Walker (13/7/90)
Start just right of an undercut arete. Move up on good holds to a small ledge. Step up and trend right to a short wall. Finish up this to a belay boulder about 6m back.
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3 - Swiss Family Robinson 20m S.4a
S 4a
Length: 20m
G Walker
Start a few metres right of Robinson Crusoe at the edge of cleaner rock. Easily up-flat holds to the ledge on Robinson Crusoe. Step up and left to a shallow groove. Continue at a shallower angle to the top
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4 - Man Friday 15m VS.4c
VS 4c
Length: 15m
G Walker, J Shields (13/7/90)
This route takes the obvious corner and slab to the right with a small overhang on one-third height. Go up the corner with good protection, surmount the overhang (crux) using a small hold on the left, and onto easier ground up the bulging wall. From here make an exposed but enjoyable hand traverse left to a possible hanging belay below a short wall which is climbed to finish. Belay at the boulder 6m back. A good route.
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5 - Spot the Dog
HVS 5a
Length: 17m
G Walker. J Shields (13/7/90)
The route starts 6m right of Man Friday up an obvious groove. Climb a rough line steeply to a horizontal break at half height. Enter the groove using small holds on the left wall (crux) and continue more ea: ily above this to a ledge. A belay is best taken on the ledge just below the top. (Poorly protected).
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6 - D A Fruits 15m HS
HS -
Length: 15m
G Henry, C Shannon (25/7/00)
The next five routes listed are all north of the lighthouse, just below the high wall. Abseil onto good ledges using the wall as an anchor. Climb the arete at the end of the inlet, below the corner of the wall. Climb left side of arete until it is possible to gain the arete proper. Climb to ledge beneath THE steep head wall. Make airy moves (crux) to the top.
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7 - First of Many 15m HS
HS -
Length: 15m
C Shannon, G Henry (25/7/00)
3m to the left of the arete, looking up. Climb up black wall into alcove. Surmount overhang using good holds above.
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8 - Thanks to Pintail 15m HS
HS -
Length: 15m
G Henry, C Shannon (25/7/00)
5m to the left of arete. First right gaining corner with overhang at half height. Climb corner to overhang and ascend ramp above
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9 - One Before Dinner 12m VD
VD -
Length: 12m
G Henry, C Shannon (25/7/00)
Next right gaining corner split by two overhangs. climb corner.
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