Editor: Winter Routes. Errigal | |
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Crag Profile: Winter Routes. Errigal |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Errigal Mountain, Donegal's highest point, it's south ridge route is climbed by thousands on an annual basis. Under Winter conditions this mountain provides exceptional winter mountaineering routes on it's North, West and East faces. Access to these faces is by the winding B road travelling North from the Dunlewy Hamlet. Discretion and considerate parking on this small farm road are required. The excellent Dunlewy centre, just to the south of the hamlet, displays current information regarding access to the North side of this mountain. Routes are listed starting on he East face (Above Dunlewy) and moving clockwise round to the East Face. OS Grid Reference: B9220 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Errigal, West Ridge.
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II Length: 200m Iain Miller 21/12/09 Climb the excellent west ridge of Errigal, up superb sustained grade I steepness, with several aviodable grade II steep sections through the sentinels that live on this ridge. A winter grade of I/II is the obvious solution to the crisis. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - The North Rib.
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III 3cLength: 180m Iain Miller 22/12/09 Climb the hanging knife edge Rib high on Errigals NW face. An absolutely outstanding mixed winter route with two distinct cruxes and considerable exposure/atmosphere. Immaculate rock, holds, turf and climbing! A winter grade of III,3 for this beast! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Snow Bunting
Length: 30m Martin McGuigan, Peter McConnell and Columba McLaughlin - 4th Jan 2010 From the top of the climb 'Heather' move up Thumb Ridge to the base of some crags but then skirt left onto the gully on the western side of Errigal’s Tower Ridge. Move up the gully to the base of a crag. And climb about 3 metres and then move left and climb up the crag to the col between Tower Ridge and the North Ridge. Move on up to Errigal’s lower summit and enjoy the view - we did :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Redpoll Gully
I Length: 50m Martin McGuigan and Columba McLaughlin - 4th January 2010 This very pleasant Grade I winter route takes the gully on the western side of the 2nd Pinnacle on Errigal’s Thumb Ridge (North West). The exit onto a snow bound ridge provides an interesting rocky challenge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Snow Goose
Length: 30m Martin McGuigan, Columba McLaughlin and Peter McConnell - 4th January 2010 Grade II: Above the 3rd Pinnacle (Leaning Rock Crag) high on Errigal’s Thumb Ridge (North West) locate a prominent triangular shaped rock. The climb is to the right and above this rock. Climb directly on the right hand side of the scoop. There is some protection in the wall on the right just below the slanting rock and there is a bomb proof belay at the top. A brilliant climb amidst awesome scenery :) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - North Ridge - Errigal
Length: 300m Columba McLaughlin and Noel McLaughlin - April 1998 Grade I/II: This route is 10 degrees NNE of Errigal’s lower summit. However, it is so close to North that the title North Ridge is appropriate. Access by road is available below Errigal’s North Face. Parking is not guaranteed. Climb until base of scree slopes at the base of North Gully and take the scree slope on the left skyline. Climb all small rocky outcrops that appear (just for enjoyment) until you reach the Col. Locate a slanting slab with very visible central crack and climb this and follow ridge until an overhanging rock forces a short move onto the Eastern Face for 4 meters. Then climb directly to regain the ridge and enjoy all the way to the lower summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Heather - Left Branch
Length: 30m Peter McConnell, Martin McGuigan and Columba McLaughlin - 4th January 2010 Grade II/III: Above the 3rd Pinnacle (Leaning Rock Crag) high on Errigal’s Thumb Ridge (North West) locate a prominent triangular shaped rock. The climb is to the right and above this rock. Climb about mid-height and move left onto more vertical challenges. Frozen turf appears just when it is needed. It is a very airy climb, there is minimal (if any) protection available and there is lots of air beneath your heels. However, there is a bomb proof belay at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Eastern Gully
I Length: 120m Columba McLaughlin - April 1998 Grade I: This winter route takes the very visible central gully below and between the twin peaks on the Eastern Face of Errigal. The climb exits at the col between Errigal’s twin summits. Access to the climb is either from the 1st Col on Errigal’s North Ridge and a traverse of the Eastern Face to the Gully. Alternatively, as on this climb, access can be gained from the Col between Mackhoght and Errigal. This involves a brilliant airy snow (and sometimes) ice traverse on a narrow ledge and onto Errigal’s Eastern face. From either start, one has to cross snowbound Scree Slopes until a deep gully flanked with what appears to be Glacial Moraine type scree appears. Climb the gully direct until a short wall presents itself and either climb the wall (if snow / ice conditions are good) or climb the left or right flanks to gain the wide gully above. Exit to the left (Summit) or right (Lower summit). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - The Crescent
II -Length: 80m K Mc Gee, P Tinney. (21/02/10) To the right of Rusty Nail across a broad slope is another ridge. Climb this from it's lowest point to the top and then continue along the normal route to the summit. This is mainly grade1 with a few grade 2 moves but the harder sections can be easily bypassed. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Rusty Nail
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IV Length: 50m K McGee, P Tinney. 7/03/10 To the right of The Fallen is a large pinnacle. Climb a small step to gain a grassy ledge at the base of the pinnacle. Climb directly up to a wide crack and some protection. Good axe hooks help the next ledge to be gained. Climb easily over the top and down the other side being careful of loose stones. Continue along the next series of rocky steps to gain a good belay spot.From here cross a short snow slope and another small rock step to the base of the next pitch. Climb over the loose flakes and up the obvious steep crack which has excellent protection. Follow the rock steps and climb the right edge of the final one and belay. Gain ridge and follow the normal route to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - The Fallen
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III Length: 50m K Mc Gee, P Tinney. (21/02/10) High on the east face are a series of rocky ridges. They can be reached by traversing onto the face from the normal route. The Fallen climbs the first of these. Climb directly up the centre of the pillar and then make a move on the left edge to gain the highest point. Drop down the other side and climb the remaining rock steps to a good belay spot. Cross the snow slope to the base of a thin crack, climb this past a small niche to a grassy ledge . Move left past the large flakes and make an airy move onto the left side of the face. Climb to the highest point, drop down the other side and climb the final rock step up past the loose stone. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
