Route Number: 1943

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Eastern Gully

Location: Winter Routes. Errigal
Grade: I
Length: 120m

First ascent: Columba McLaughlin - April 1998

Route Description:

Grade I: This winter route takes the very visible central gully below and between the twin peaks on the Eastern Face of Errigal. The climb exits at the col between Errigal’s twin summits. Access to the climb is either from the 1st Col on Errigal’s North Ridge and a traverse of the Eastern Face to the Gully. Alternatively, as on this climb, access can be gained from the Col between Mackhoght and Errigal. This involves a brilliant airy snow (and sometimes) ice traverse on a narrow ledge and onto Errigal’s Eastern face. From either start, one has to cross snowbound Scree Slopes until a deep gully flanked with what appears to be Glacial Moraine type scree appears. Climb the gully direct until a short wall presents itself and either climb the wall (if snow / ice conditions are good) or climb the left or right flanks to gain the wide gully above. Exit to the left (Summit) or right (Lower summit).

Winter Routes Errigals NE Face - All great routes.

Comments

Alan - 22/03/2010
Joey Glover and Co cut steps up this in 1956 according to the NWMC log. Crampons were considered cheating in them days! I've been up it a couple of times in poor snow.

Columba McLaughlin - 18/03/2010
Climbed Eastern Gully on Errigal today (17th March 2010) in almost summer conditions. Some old snow was present in parts of the route. The short rock walls / steps were very barren of snow but provided good interest on the way up.

Columba McLaughlin - 05/01/2010
This is a brief description of a winter climb I did on Errigal in April 1998. No attempt is made to claim it as a 1st Ascent. However, I am unaware of any previous claimants.

IM - 05/01/2010
Excellent Sir!could you do a wee topo of all the Errigal routes you have uploaded? Maybe using the pic I uploaded, I'll go have a wee play. :-)

Pete - 05/01/2010
Marty added some photos this morning. Maybe he'll comment them and attach them to routes.