Route Number: 1383

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The Quemadero

Location: Muckish (Balor's Buttress)
Grade: E2 5a
Length: 15m

First ascent: P.Cooper & G.Thomas 29/04/07

Route Description:

The arete left of 'Thera'. Start from just left of 'Thera's' start, take a rising leftwards traverse, above roof/corner wide bridge-out for arete. Gain a stance on the left of the arete, small wire and sling can be placed. Next gear is a horizontal crack, approx 1M below top, takes very small cam (00); good edges on right hand of arete help to finish.

Led on-sight. Bold, run-out and poorly protected, requires confidence at grade.

Peter Cooper on The Quemedero, Muckish - A wide bridge gains the arete, the climbing above requires a lot of faith in a little gear. Will you succeed or go to the Quemadero?

Comments

PC - 25/03/2009
Was browsing guidebook and note no 2nd ascent yet? Was informed by Patrick Tinney that he's top-roped it and a hold came off, glad that didn't happen while I was on it; no idea if grade remains the same.

Peter Cooper - 09/09/2007
Was browsing and spotted your comment Bill, cheers. Grade yet to be confirmed,can we ve a 2nd ascent please?

Bill Magowan - 03/05/2007
Watched Peter do this and was lost in admiration. An amazing route worth at least three real stars.