Editor: Muckish (Balor's Buttress) | |
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Crag Profile: Muckish (Balor's Buttress) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: The crag on the right of the big stone chute, on the right of McSwynes. A pinnacle marks its left hand side. Easiest access is by traversing left from the Miners Track. Or alternatively a tricky crossing of the stone chute, if approaching from the left. OS Grid Reference: C008292 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Panhandel
No length recorded M Manson, A Tees (10/77) At the base of Balor's Pedestal on the crag's left-hand side is a corner. Locate cracks about 3m right and climb them to a spike. From there holds lead leftwards to the top. There is an easier angled, but more vegetated alternative route to the spike on the right. Dry weather route! (and poor).
M Manson, A Tees (10/77) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Pedestal Route
S No length recorded A Tees, S Hamilton (5/8/79) Start: On a 1 m platform in a small alcove below Balor's Pinnacle. Climb edge to right to reach base of bulging crack which climbed to platform and ledge. Continue up back wall to pinnacle base. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - An Gaeta Oscailte
E1 5aLength: 10m Marek Przybylski, Adam Tinney, Olaf Czujko, Patrick Tinney Despite it's shortness this is
an excellent route with adequate protection. Belay on good crack on
grassy ledge bellow pillar's base on the side of the big gully. Start
up the off-width crack in the center of the pillar. Big cams in
horizontal break above off-width. Go up and right on good holds to
thin ledge and horizontal crack on face.Cam 1 and good red tricam. Delicate moves
diagonally left onto face and then up to big holds on ledge above.
Finish easily to the top. Very good belay on top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Tur Criostail
E2 5bLength: 10m Marek Przybylski Bold and worthy with crux on the
lower half. Climb up to pulpit where you can place large cam. The last
and only protection. Climb up to small square cut ledge on the right.
Few delicate moves gains better holds on face and arete(crux). Climb
on to the top using arete and features on the face. Big jugs to
finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Nata
No length recorded Marek Przybylski, Patrick Tinney. 22 June 2014 Nata is the crack about 12 meters to the left of I.A.T.A. on the right wall of the huge gully behind Balor's pinnacle. Belay in corner below crack. Climb up for about 6 meters to start of crack. Climb crack on good protection until a move can be made into a short slopping corner on the left about 4 meters from the top (crux). Finish up corner. Good belay at top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - I.A.T.A.
E1 5bLength: 28m Marek Przybylski, Patrick Tinney. 22 June 2014 Behind Balor's Pinnacle, go left and up a faint path on the right side of the huge gully. Look back and up to the rock wall on your right. There are two good clean cracks. I.A.T.A. takes the one on the right about 4 meters left of the buttress corner. Belay in short corner below crack. Climb the arete left of the corner moving right to base of crack. Gain the crack by making a tricky move in from the left. Two or three Size 3 camalots uesful. Hand/Fist crack on good protection to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Nineteen Racoons
Length: 28m R Smith, B Patton (12/4/82) Behind Balor's pinnacle, surmount two ledges and traverse right to base of chimney. Climb the arete forming the left-hand edge of chimney. Bulge at top is the crux.
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8 - Piggy Back
VS 5aLength: 12m Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 29/04/07 At the right hand edge of the wall, at a right angle to Thera Wall (and right of Panhandel) there is a big perched rock. Thin climbing below and left of this to gain the notch between the rock and the arete. Easier climbing up the arete above. Protection can be preplaced on the right to protect the otherwise unprotectable lower section. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - The Quemadero
E2 5aLength: 15m P.Cooper & G.Thomas 29/04/07 The arete left of 'Thera'. Start from just left of 'Thera's' start, take a rising leftwards traverse, above roof/corner wide bridge-out for arete. Gain a stance on the left of the arete, small wire and sling can be placed. Next gear is a horizontal crack, approx 1M below top, takes very small cam (00); good edges on right hand of arete help to finish. Led on-sight. Bold, run-out and poorly protected, requires confidence at grade. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Thera
HVS 5aLength: 12m B Patton, R Smith (25/4/82) (Previous top roped ascent by A Tees, 1981) This route climbs the wall at the base of Balors Pinnacle. Climb the obvious crack (strenuous) to platform at top. Superb route. B Patton, R Smith (25/4/82) (Previous top roped ascent by A Tees, 1981) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - An Phouca
Length: 12m A Tees (7/8/83) This route takes the right-angled corner just right of Thera. A dry weather route.
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12 - Crucifiction
VS 4bLength: 15m A Tees, R Smith (12/7/79) Locate wall on left of Blackfriar's Chimney split by horizontal and vertical cracks forming a cross. Climb vertical crack (starting on left and finishing on the right).
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13 - The Fomorians
Length: 25m Patrick Tinney, Marek Przybylski, 22 June 2014 Start about 5 meters right of the corner with Crucifiction just before the large roofs.Use a poor handhold to gain small jugs in horizontal break, move right along break to gain over hanging flake and then up finger crack to good ledge (crux). Good protection at ledge. Make way delicately up face above to crack (small cams) Finish up the face on good holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Nutcracker
Length: 50m R Lee, A Tees (5/76) At extreme right-hand corner of buttress locate a ramp. Climb it and go straight up questionable looking projecting blocks to grassy ledge. Proceed up jammed rocks to spike, swing round it and into large chimney which is easily climbed to another ledge. Follow rightward cracks to small shelf and the top. Lower reaches are loose!
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0 -
No length recorded Next routes are over on the 'HOG'S BACK BUTTRESS' View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - Pop
Length: 34m R Smith, J Scott (18.7.82) Start: At the left side of the outcrop, below cave (lower tier of Hog's Back).
Climb to a ledge and then up a vertical crack to the top (loose rock).
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18 - Muciron
Length: 200m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, 6/05/2016ay Add route description here...
Start Gr 99940 28671. This route was previously climbed as a winter route by Tinney and McGee called Bluesteel 'Muciron' is the ridge bounding 'Gully of the Gods' on its left hand side. It can be approached directly from the bottom, or more easily by a rightwards traverse from the Miner's track. The gully is not obvious from below, as the bottom of the Muciron ridge twists to the west, obscuring the entrance to this big loose gully. The Funnel is more easily seen from the bottom, a narrow steep gully/chimney at the centre-back of the amphitheatre. Muciron is its right edge. The first step is steep, but easily surmounted on good holds, 4a. There are a further 7 steps as follows; (2) Short Wall 3a. (3) Short Wall with crack in the centre 4a. (4) Narrow slab on arête to stance, and dramatic move out onto fin above 3c. (5) Shallow corner (dirty) 4a. (6) ’Sandband Step’ Up arête with care, and awkward move rightward into corner. Easy to top, 4a. Beware rock on this step is not quartzite, but the compressed sand for which Muckish was once excavated. (7) Climb wall on big flat holds with good protection, 3c. (8) Last short step, climbed on the left, 4a. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
19 - Goshawk
Length: 30m Marty McGuigan, Alan Tees 30/05/2016 This climbs the big pillar right of the Miners Track known as the
Colossus. Access is from the gully on the right. Traverse a ledge
from a big block about half way up the long ( lower ) side of the
pillar to a belay. Climb into an unattractive corner, then out left
into a higher niche, and straight up to the upper ledge. There is a
peg there. Traverse left to an exposed wall and climb it, initially
on good holds. There is a thin bit, before it eases, but protection
is non existant and exposure considerable. A final step leads to the
top. A 60m rope will suffice to drop down the short side to secure
for abseil back to the belay, if you do not wish to abandon gear at
the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Thundercrack
HS 4bLength: 35m R Wray, A Tees (Alt leads) (11/5/80) About 40m right of the great cave, on the "Hogs Back" Buttress (across the amphitheatre and right of the Miners Track) there is an obvious chimney system. Climb this to the top where an awkward exit is made to the right under roof and then left (crux) to top.
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17 - Barbarian
VS 4bLength: 40m R Wray, A Tees (Alt leads) (11/5/80) Start: 5m left of Thundercrack.
Climb into open-bottomed chimney. Move out left and pull up onto ledge. The route then follows the wall beside Thundercrack on small holds until forced left (delicate) at top to small peaty ledge. Scramble to top. R Wray, A Tees (Alt leads) (11/5/80)
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