Route Number: 3173

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Muciron

Location: Muckish (Balor's Buttress)
Grade: S  4a
Length: 200m
First ascent: Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, 6/05/2016ay
Route Description:
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  Start Gr 99940 28671.  This route was previously climbed as a winter route by Tinney and McGee called Bluesteel

 

'Muciron' is the ridge bounding 'Gully of the Gods' on its left hand side.  It can be approached directly from the bottom, or more easily by a rightwards traverse from the Miner's track.  The gully is not obvious from below, as the bottom of the Muciron ridge twists to the west, obscuring the entrance to this big loose gully.  The Funnel is more easily seen from the bottom, a narrow steep gully/chimney at the centre-back of the amphitheatre. Muciron is its right edge.

 

The first step is steep, but easily surmounted on good holds, 4a.  There are a further 7 steps as follows; (2) Short Wall 3a. (3) Short Wall with crack in the centre 4a. (4) Narrow slab on arête to stance, and dramatic move out onto fin above 3c. (5) Shallow corner (dirty) 4a. (6) ’Sandband Step’  Up arête with care, and awkward move rightward into corner.  Easy to top, 4a.  Beware rock on this step is not quartzite, but the compressed sand for which Muckish was once excavated. (7) Climb wall on big flat holds with good protection, 3c. (8) Last short step, climbed on the left, 4a.

 

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