Llanwrst or Bust |
Location: Poisoned Glen (The Castle)
Grade: HVS 5a
Length: 60m
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| First ascent: Al Millar, D Ryan, D Millar 13.05.05 |
| Route Description: |
- (5a) 25m Climb obvious cleaned slab 2m right of Rafiki arete till it steepens at 20m. Move up and across rightward on good foot edges along short slab under short hanging wall. Use hold in thin right curving seam (between slab and wall) and smears to move up around the right edge of short wall. Belay on good ledge
- (4c) 15m Move carefully right for a few metres along foot ledge then
climb short steep finger sized crack (exposed) to heather ledge. Move left
and belay as for Rafiki.
- (4c) 20m Move up corner of Chemical Brothers to second ledge then move to
right side of this and climb the slabby looking ramp just right of the
overhang to ledge. Move left and up short corner to belay. A fine climb and
all on good rock. (It is possible to go direct from a belay on the right
straight up to right side of the second ledge, via an unprotected mantle
shelf at 5b.)
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