Claymore in the Gully * * |
Location: Poisoned Glen (The Castle)
Grade: E1 5b
Length: 55m
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| First ascent: Al Millar + D Ryan 10 June 2005 |
| Route Description: |
Climbs a line low down on the fine clean wall on the other side of the gully from Rafiki.
- (5b) 35m. About 10m up from the mouth of the gully are three stepped left trending ledges. Climb these to good foot hold above the third. Move right across small hanging corner then up steeply (crux) to small ledge. Continue straight up past some thin flakes and small overhang into short crack groove, exiting left to niche below slab. (belay possible) move up niche and tippy toe left across thin seam in slab to heather. Belay in crack in short wall.
- 4c) 20m Move up heather for a few metres till it is possible to step back right onto slab where it does a step up and there is a fine fist crack. Climb this and cracks and slab above exiting left up wide crack to avoid headwall at top.
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Al in the Castle Gully, Poisoned Glen - Al on a new route of his at the bottom of the castle gully, "Claymore in the Gully". June 2005.
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