Start of Something New * * |
Location: Culdaff - Dunowen (Brazil Rock)
Grade: E4 6a
Length: 20m
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| First ascent: Paul Dunlop 8/11/92 |
| Route Description: |
| Steep and sustained climbing up the capped groove right of Zanzibar. Climb the steep groove to the cracked overhanging wall. Climb this short wall, past some friends in a hand jam crack to two good holds below the overhang. Move right over the roof to a big ledge. Finish up the wall on the left. |
Start of Something New - Paul Dunlop on first and only ascent.
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| Comments |
Peter Cooper - 09/07/2012
Nice going, lads. There are more E4s' over on Finbarr Wall (East side of Dunmore Head)if you're running short. Additionally, Paul put up an E5/E6 over at Wave Crest Rocks; which we don't know if its ever had a 2nd ascent done. Failing that, go find some E4 lines and climb them before the guide is finished. |
John McCune - 09/07/2012
this is a great route. just a real pity theres not a few more like it nearby. soft e4. well protected. line of the crag |
Kevin Kilroy - 02/05/2011
Lead this today with the help of an Auzie, a Russian and many fine folk from Ireland. Legends the lot of them for the encouragements and belaying time.
This is a stunning climb. The gear is plentyful but thoughtful, although the rock in the bottom groove was at times falling apart. Should mostly be sound by now. The crux is not where you'd think!!!
Get on and enjoy, unforgetable!
Can confirm the grade and two star quality. Good effort Mr Dunlop.
P.S I abbed in to clean the fuzz off the top slab a couple of days before leading. If you see fuzz on the slab when you go to do it, don't worry about it, honest. The groove itself stays clean.
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Pete - 24/10/2008
Andy, if Paul D said E4 6a it won't be far off. I doubt anyone has made a serious attempt on it since then. |
Andy H - 23/10/2008
so what is the grade really? |
Alan Tees 1/07/08 - 01/07/2008
Not to my knowledge. Over to you? |
rodders - 21/06/2008
has anyone ever repeated this? |
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