Editor – Route Details | Colmcille Climbers

Route Number: 298

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Midnight Dilemma *

Location: Dungloon (Kinnego)
Grade: E1 5b
Length: 20m

First ascent: P Dunlop, R Dun/op (17/6/87)

Route Description:

This one wicks its wicked way up the fragile face facing Forked Lightning. A good line. It takes the crack in the centre of the wall. Move Up holey rock to a steep section. Pass this (crux) to a ledge. Continue up the crack to the top. Belay, and abseil off a block on the summit. A sling was originally in place around this, but a cow is thought to have eaten it. To the right of Midnight Dilemma and round the corner is a narrow wall where the next two routes are situated.

The Crow's Nest at Kinnego Bay - A Rusty Rigging
B Midnight Dilemma
C Frigate
D All Black and Green

Comments

Pete - 03/05/2011
That's fulsome praise Kevin. Great to see some of these E routes getting a bit of traffic.

Kevin Kilroy - 02/05/2011
Three star e1 5b. Mega mega mega! Find a better e1, I dare you!!!!

Martin Sweeney - 03/05/2006
I did this route at the 2006 climb fest, dont think the rock pulling out of the middle finger crack section affects the grade, nice steep climbing, with good pro at the crux and nice rests before the hard bits

Rodney Moore - 11/11/2005
Pulled a big chunk out of the middle finger crack section. Not sure if this affects the grade but the rock is a bit suspect! Great Route though!