Route Number: 327

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Dubliners

Location: Poisoned Glen (The Castle)
Grade: VS -
Length: 210m

First ascent: E. Healey B MacCall, F Winder (shared leads) (6/4/58)

Route Description:

Start: Directly below the vertical corner that can be seen at the right-hand end of Portcullis Wall (the clean vertical wall in the centre of the buttress).

9m Climb a short crack (3m) to a vegetated ledge.
15m Traverse slightly left and climb slab to end up on vegetation after 6m. Up mixed vegetation to belay.
30m Climb mixed rock and vegetation to base of vertical corner between Portcullis Wall and buttress on right.
12m Up chimney for 2m then cross right wall to gain ledge around corner. Up by sloping shelves to top of chimney.
30m Move a few feet right, then left on easier ground, until an awkward mantleshelf at 30m leads to a rightward leaning crack and belay.
30m Up crack to overhang at 10m. Traverse right and descend. Hard long step to gain ledge. Up groove and move left to belay on grass ledge.
24m Up slab, and at 6m move left to crack. Up this to top. Crack can be avoided by exposed move on the Ieft.A further 210m of scrambling leads to the top of the cliff

Comments

Iain Miller - 23/04/2008
When seen from the distance, this route takes the right to left trending fault to the right of the Portcullis wall. The first 3 pitches are very Jungle like, indeed! The route can be done more directly, than guidebook description with a full modern rack ie cams. It's not 210 mtrs long though, maybe 125 mtrs tops, as for grade "mountain VS" expect the usual plant life and fun!!