Route Number: 331

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Rafiki *

Location: Poisoned Glen (The Castle)
Grade: VS  -
Length: 72m
First ascent: S Rothery F Winder (Alt leads) (8/3/59)
Route Description:
Start: This route takes the left edge of the small clean buttress, on the skyline to the right of The Castle and separated from The Castle by the deep cut Great Gully.
  1. 4b. 32m From the bottom, left-hand edge of the buttress go up slabby, vegetated rocks to the base of a small chimney. Climb either the chimney itself or the cracks to the right. Continue up the edge of the buttress onto vegetated ledges to a good belay at the base of the first steepness of the rib. '
  2. 4c. 22m Climb on stepped blocks to the left of the rib to reach the edge of the rib. Swing out onto the rib past old peg and continue up the groove in its centre to avoid the jammed blocks. A nice pitch.
  3. 4a. 18m Move up on good rock to the top.
S Rothery F Winder (Alt leads) (?_8/3/59)

Photo of Route
Rafiki, The Castle, Poisoned Glen - Magowan leads pitch one, and my rucsack looks well too!
Comments

Anon - 13/06/2006
Just to confirm grade and line of this route. Mountain VS. The first two pitches follow descriptions in Guide book fairly well. The first pitch as a few heather cracks and ledges that could be cleaned but is good anyway. The second pitch is vegetation free practically. There is not much to the last pitch and I would probably eliminate it if I ever did it again. Worth its two stars

Alan Tees - 13/06/2006
There is a very committing move onto the arete on the second pitch!

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