Route Number: 911

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Lord of the Flies *

Location: Malinbeg (Narrow Zawn)
Grade: HS 4b
Length: 25m

First ascent: D Walsh, P Gargan, C Wray (Alt leads) (31/3/75 direct start (20/5/78)

Route Description:

Start: The lower of the two diagonal ramps mentioned above leads, with one awkward mantleshelf to the foot of a black chimney. The same point is more directly reached by climbing the obvious weakness in the wall below the ramp, gaining the ramp at 5m, just below the awkward mantleshelf. It is possible to belay at the foot of the chimney. Just right of the chimney, climb the obvious layback crack which is a feature of the cliff (crux) and up steep ground to finish.

New shoes? Suits you sir! - John learns how to layback and smear

Comments

Des O'Connor - 08/05/2012
tough enuf wee start at first ledge but well worth it for the laybacking moves