Colmcille Climbers

  We (Noel and me) stayed overnight in the Castle Hostel in Clifden, Co. Galway. Very clean and breakfast was included. Up early and off to Ben Corr. It was overcast with the threat of rain. The small car park is some distance along the main road and left us with a 2 ½ hour walk in. Wellie boots were great to get over the bog. Carrot ridge rose proud from the mountain and we made a beeline towards it.

Pitch 1: 25m (approx) on a sloping pale pink slab. It’s a bit necky and poor protection. Belay on a small stance before it steepens.

Pitch 2: 20m (Approx) is steep and on small holds. Very necky moves required. However, it ends on a commodious big ledge and a solid belay position.

Pitch 3: 25m (Approx): Step around the west side of the ledge and climb for a few meters until a short sharp pull gets you on to the wall above. Excellent climbing on small holds. Belay on a wide ledge just below the vertical wall of the 1^st Step.

Pitch 4: 35m (Approx): The wall of the 1st Step is skirted on its western side. Take the line of least resistance by following an indistinct scoop / groove. This pitch is excellent bold climbing on small but good holds. There are few gear placements but when found are excellent. About 5 meters up someone left a new shiny green coloured nut insitu. Rather than claim it as mountain booty we left it there as it might be useful for other climbers. Belay on the west side of the recess.

Pitch 5: 15m (Approx): Climb quite steeply from the recess to a good ledge on the crest.

Pitch 6: 12m (Approx): Climb a small chimney on good holds to an impressive stance on the ridge crest. From here, the ridge narrows and there is some pleasant walking / scrambling for about 90m until you come to the base of the 2^nd Step.

Pitch 7: 45m (Approx): Gain the ridge on the lowest point on its eastern side and traverse west and climb steeply until you can get to a vague groove. At about 25m you can place a No.2 Friend and a 2m sling on the crest was. It is possible to have a hanging belay here as well. I opted to climb through and on to the spectacular crest of the 2^nd Step. Brilliant views all around.

Pitch 8: 100m (Approx) : A scrambling delight up the 3^rd Step to the summit of the Carrot Ridge on clean and very rough rock.

 It did not rain and we descended the scree slopes on the Eastern side of the ridge to the bog, on to the car and a steak dinner in Maam Cross. A superb outing with long run outs and on poorly protected but sound and very rough rock. J