Route Number: 506

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More Snakes than Ladders *

Location: Lough Belshade (Belshade Buttress)
Grade: VS 4c
Length: 84m

First ascent: W Brown-Kerr, D Kilpatrick, D Stelfox (25/3/84)

Route Description:

VS.4b, 4c, 4b Deep crack and corner system left of Byzantium at the left side of the South Buttress, left of the main face. The start of this route as well as Byzantium, Classical Revival and Mystery Tour are all most pleasantly reached by climbing up the long narrow slab tongue below the left hand corner of the main face (V.Diff). Directly above the top of this, is a clean slab flanked by two grassy bays. Start at the arete on the left of this slab.

36m. Up arete, easily at first, but awkwardly at a bulge at 15m. Above this move right to gain a good deep crack system which is followed to a belay at the foot of a deep chimney system on the right.
36m Easily up chimney for 10m to a grass ledge and rowan tree. Bridge up the steep corner above (crux) and then follow crack and slab above to large ledge and belay.
12m Up the cracks on the right above to the top. Good spike belay 5m back.

Lough Belshade Donegal - A More Snakes Than Ladders
B Byzantium
C Classical Revival

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