Midgesummer Nightmare * * * |
Location: Lough Belshade (Belshade Buttress)
Grade: E1 5b
Length: 80m
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| First ascent: D Stelfox, W Brown-Kerr (9/7/83) |
| Route Description: |
E1.5b, 5b, 4c This route takes a direct line up the crag between Lest we Forget and Land of Hearts Desire.
Start: As for Lest we Forget.
- 35m Start by climbing approx 7m up Lest we Forget and traversing right to the foot of a green corner. There is an obvious direct start below this point but seems to remain constantly wet and has not yet been climbed. Climb the clean cracks and grooves immediately to the left of the corner, with increasing difficulty to reach the right hand side of the belay ledge of Pitch 1 of Lest we Forget.
- 25m Climb the rounded grooves at the right hand side of the ledge, utilising holds on the right of the blunt rib. Move right as the angle eases to a huge detached block. Move up the left-hand side of this and swing out left onto the slab. Up this to a constricted belay in a narrow corner groove.
- 15m From here follow the obvious cracks above to the edge. Move right and then up a crack in the slab above.
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