Land of Hearts Desire * * * |
Location: Lough Belshade (Belshade Buttress)
Grade: HVS 5a
Length: 83m
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| First ascent: I Rea, D Stelfox (10/81) |
| Route Description: |
HVS.5a, 5a, 5a, 4c This route gives sustained good quality climbing and takes the prominent corner system up the right hand side of the Main Face.
Start: As for Lest we Forget. Left of the corner at the top of the heather ramp.
- 18m Climb a short steep wall just right of a small subsidiary corner at the top of the heather ledge. After
5m follow the obvious traverse right to gain huge block at the foot of the main corner system.
- 35m Climb corner directly to reach a perfect belay ledge just left of the twin cracks in the next corner above.
- 26m Make a few moves up a small corner, then swing right into the twin cracks (crux). Up these to base of final steep corner. Up this to belay on grassy ledge to left.
- 4m Up the short layback above, then up grass and easy rock to belay, far back.
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Land of Hearts Desire
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| Comments |
Dave Millar - 02/06/2009
Led this with Ivan Krella there at the weekend. This really is a great route with 3 contrasting types of climbing on each pitch, slabby technical first pitch,classic open book corner on the second and awesome jamtastic twin cracks to finish. Top of the 2nd pitch had some vegetation in the corner crack but thankfully didn,t hinder the climbing too much. Definetly 3*stars and grade felt spot on. |
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