Scalp na gCapail |
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Directions: This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo (Grid Ref 642278), Sheet 25, Collooney. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Turn onto a minor road on the left after 3 km ,signed for Cooney (L6102) leads shortly to this roadside crag in the townland of Collooney (if you continue on the road it will lead to Happy Valli crag). The original routes were focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, but more recently ( 2018/19) cleaning has produced more routes on the left side of the cliff. Routes are described left to right.
OS Grid Reference: 642278
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HS 4a
Length: 20m M.Daly, B.Proctor 6.10.18 The route takes the LHS of the wall. Climb square cut ledges on the
LHS of the wall to where it steepens. A few technical moves lead
to good jugs and the top. Good protection.
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HS 4b
Length: 20m C. OFiannachta, H.Doherty 13.05.19 Start 2m right of Santa Maria on good steps, moving slightly right and
up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of
ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to
where it steepens. Pass a small tree and thin crack and mantle
headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up a small bank. Very good
protection and variety of holds.
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VS 4c
Length: 25m M.Daly B Proctor 29.09.19 A further 8m to the right there is an overhang at mid height and a
second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of
the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through
it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the second overhang.
Climb to the crack in its centre and gain jugs above. Mantle over it
to the top (crux).
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E1 5b
Length: 25m M.Daly, B.Proctor 29.09.19 Start 2m right of 'Juliana'. Pull up onto wall by difficult moves
and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up
to base of bulge. Climb this strenuously (crux) to a good rest.
Continue to the top.
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HVS 5a
Length: 20m C. O'Fiannachta, J Gilmore 13.05.19 Three metres right of Lavia, this route takes the most direct line
through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche
and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a
hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves to surmount this, to
good holds and a rest. Finish up the slabby wall.
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VS 4c
Length: 20m C.O'Fiannachta, J Gilmore 13.05.19 Two metres right of Firestarter, start at the small undercut. Climb up
and slightly right of a human sized notch. Up onto slab and straight
up towards the overhang. Make a committing move to surmount this
(dont step right). Have a rest and continue up the middle of the
slabby wall to the top.
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S 4a
Length: 20m C. O'Fiannachta, H. Doherty 27.04.19 Climb the stepped tongue on good
holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks
(good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up
and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small
gear on top.
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HS 4c
Length: 20m C.O'Fiannachta, I. Krella May 17 Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of
neighbouring route unti joining is necessary at two thirds height.
Finish as per Moore Street Trader.
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The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face, split by
three obvious lines. The leftmost one is taken by Moore Street
Trader.
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HVS 5a
Length: 25m M.Daly & C.McDaid 27th April 2007 The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by this route. Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.
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VS 4c
Length: 25m M.Daly & C.McDaid 27th April 2007 This route climbs the central crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay
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E2 5b
Length: 25m M.Daly & C.McDaid 4th June 2007 Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
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VS 4c
Length: 25m C.McDaid & M.Daly 27th April 2007 Climb the rightmost crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay
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E1 5b
Length: 13m C.McDaid & D.O'Neill 28th April 2007 On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off. Abseil tat in situ
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S 4a
Length: 20m C.McDaid & M.Daly 4th June 2007 The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.
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S -
Length: 25m G.Foley 9th Oct 1976 Takes the chimney to the right of "Postie Pornstar". Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.
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D -
Length: 25m G.Foley 9th Oct 1976 Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg
belay.
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HS 4b
Length: 17m M.Daly & C.McDaid 9th June 2007 Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after two metres. The leftmost is taken by this route. Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay
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VS 4c
Length: 17m M.Daly & C.McDaid 4th June 2007 The adjoining crack is climbed direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.
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VS 4c
Length: 17m M.Daly & C.McDaid 4th June 2007 One metre further right is another crack, climb it direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.
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